Steering questions

R

rmak

Senior Member
Here's a few new guy questions about my new to me modified 29 roadster:
1. The previous owner cut up the top of the steering column to attach a new style steering wheel (Ugh!) It looks like he cut back the outside sleeve, (sorry I don't know the proper term) cut off the tops of the spark advance and throttle adjustment, and beat up the keyed area where the original wheel went.
I don't really need the two adjusting arms, but I'd like an original wheel. What parts would I need? I figure I'll need a new steering shaft, but after that I'm clueless.
Would it be better to replace everything from the gear box up?
2. I read where Model A steering is "notchy". My steering works in a way, binds in certain areas of the turn and has a lot of play. I know this when I have the front tires jacked off the floor. With the weight on the wheels, I can turn left fine, but really fight to turn past a binding in the center and when I turn right, the steering column starts to screw out of the shaft. What's going on? I haven't driven a good running A so I don't have anything to compare with.
Thanks from a clueless new guy.
 
Do not know if you have a 2 or 7 tooth steering column;

If I were you I would get a good restored column from someone and be done fighting the situation.

Pluck
 
Looks to me that this would probably be a good candidate for the "EZ Steer" assembly. You would probably have to find a replacment tube somewhere, and possibly a new, or good replacement steering wheel. There are other ways to go on this, but not recommended for the "faint of heart". If the price of the "EZ Steer" does not fit into the pocket book for now.....try to locate another Model A'er in you area, and see what he has laying around. Maybe he might even give you a hand !!
 
How modified is your roadster? Is the steering model A? As the others said rplace entire steering box/column.
Paul in CT
 
Yeah, Paul, it's a stock steering set up with the steering wheel part butchered. That ez steer set up looks good, but something like that is down the road for me money wise.
I think you guys are saying that the steering shouldn't be this hard or binding. The guy I bought it from says that is a normal 'A' system,that they all work like that.

Is there any way to try to adjust the binding and play out, or is the steering box shot?
 
No, actually if adjusted correctly, and being approx 80 yrs old they work ok. In les andrew's mech book (avail from most vendors and on the i/net, a must have) are detailed adj proc for the steering box. Swapping out the whole assy is prob your easiest fix, or replace the shaft in your present box. If it was me I'd look for another box/column. Hope this helps. I'm sure others will chime in.
Paul in CT
 
The steering box worm and sectors do wear over time, and if the steering box had leaked oil, (which most if all did) the gears along with the bearings, will show signs of wear. This is usually the cause of the binding you feel. Disconnect the pitman arm from the drag link and try it again. That will at least eliminate one possible area of binding.
 
Larry Seemann said:
Bring it on over and I'll help you get 'er straightened out.
Click to expand...
If I could get the darned thing started, and be able to steer it, I'd drive right out! It's only a couple of thousand miles.

I just got a Andrews manual from Sniders yesterday. I'll give it a read.
Thanks.
 
If it's a 7 tooth steering box there is not much you can ajust. If it was me, (and I just did this because I just got my first A last summer) For safety sake, I would check out the entire steering. check all the steering joints that the pivot balls arn't worn egg shaped, check the king pins for wear, check the steering box for slop. I know this gets pricy replacing this stuff but were talking about safety. Frst thing I would do is get a Les Andrews volume 1 book. I'm sure other barners have thoughts on this. Just my two cents.
 
rmak said:
If I could get the darned thing started, and be able to steer it, I'd drive right out! It's only a couple of thousand miles.

I just got a Andrews manual from Sniders yesterday. I'll give it a read.
Thanks.
Click to expand...

So you haven't tried steering it while it is moving because you can't get it started. Get it running so you can get it in motion. They steer alot easier when they are moving.
 
rmak, you said in your original post that you did not need the spark and throttle adjustment arms:eek:, these might help you when it comes to starting:rolleyes:.
 
Ed Saniewski said:
rmak, you said in your original post that you did not need the spark and throttle adjustment arms:eek:, these might help you when it comes to starting:rolleyes:.
Click to expand...

I am sorry to not explain. The guy i bought it from was making it into a 40's style hot rod. The engine is upgraded with new distributor and carb set up. I promised to keep my questions specific to the parts of the car I want to get back to original for those folks on this site who want to keep the conversations restore only.
 
OK, this is a little aside but how does the "EZ steer" work with a 28-29 steering housing. The web site just says you have to "use the adaptor". Anybody have a picture of the EZ Steer box on a 28-29?
 
John Lavoy has a good picture of the EZ Steer assembly in a vehicle. He will probably chip in here with a photo and good comments. I am in the process right now in completing the overhaul of a 29 F Gemmer Steering assembly to go in one of our cars. If this does not correct the "jack rabbit" action we get when driving, you can be assured the wife will be dictating we go to the EZ Steer steering box.
 
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