Steering parts replacement

O

Oilslickwillie

Senior Member
Is it possible to replace outer, inner tie rods, drag link, pitman arm, etc by installing starting across from passenger side all the way to the pitman arm, keeping in mind to count rotations when removing outer tie rods and measuring adjustments as you go across to possibly keep your alignment fairly close. Next, a full alignment at the shop. Will need to drive 30 + miles to get there. Any help is appreciated. (1955 Ford Fairlane 4 Door)
 
I'm not a front end guy by any stretch but if you start with the steering wheel centered & wheels pointed straight ahead, with careful measurements you can get it back together with the toe in/out very close, if not right on. As a double check, with the tires on the ground, you can use a tape measure between the inside sidewalls of the tires approx halfway up the tire. The front measurement should be approx 1/8 inch less than the rear. Close enough to get to the alignment shop.
 
Sounds like that would work. I know if you count the number of rotation of the outer tie rod as it points down, it should get you close to your toe in. I forgot about keeping the tires straight though. I probably need to adjust my steering box after installing the outer tie rods and also will have to check to see if the other components are loose, if so, will replace them also. Someone said if you take the big nut off the bottom of the steering box and remove the upper plate, you can remove the sector gear by pushing up to remove the box. Don't know about that at all. If not, will probably try and find someone who knows how to rebuild a 1955 Fairlane steering box. Never have done that.
 
Counting the number of turns works if you're putting the same part or a 100% identical one back on.
A replacement tie rod end might have a slightly longer or shorter threaded portion, check first.
Steering box? No clue.
 
It's been a long time, but IIRC, you loosen the nut on top of the box, tighten the screw, and reset the nut to lock it. I think the 55's had the shaft that went from the box all the way to the wheel. AKA the spear of death. The box is designed so the tightest spot is dead ahead, and a little looser off center. At least on the 55 birds, and maybe early 56, they used a "2 sector" box. By 57, it was a "3 sector". Better steering feel, less slop.

You might run a search, or better yet someone who really knows will chime in.

There's info on the HAMB on setting your own alignment. Do a search first, and don't ask until you do an intro. They're pretty serious about the rules there.
 
Measure the existing tie rod assemblies from one grease fitting to the other, write it down somewhere. Put the new ones together, center the adjusting sleeve, by eye is fine, and make the total length the same as the old assembly. Counting turns is a waste of time and not that accurate.

I would advise against about diving into the steering box until the alignment is complete. Most Ford manuals have a section on adjusting them, follow that to the letter and it should be an improvement, unless the internals are shot.
 
I removed the steering gear on my 55. On the bench, it was cleaned inside and out, then follow the instructions from the book. Bearing preload, then the adjusting nut. I used 50/50 90 wt and STP for lube.
 
Ole Don, I'm assuming that you had to pull the entire steering column. Also, can it be removed from the bottom of car. (Remove steering wheel, turn signal and shift lever, etc.) instead out through the inside. Also, don't have a book. What is best one to get?
 
Get a repro shop manual, I see them on eBay for around $35.

Some of those steering boxes came out the bottom only, not sure about the '55.
 
Steering gear and column come out the top on the 55. Remove the steering wheel, turn signal wires, horn wire, pitman arm, frame bolts. Move seat back, lay carpet up on hump, remove screws holding floor opening and sheet metal. Lift up on steering shaft and unscrew it through floor hole. Its easier than it sounds.
 
Managed to adjust the steering box today. Had wheels straight jacked up tires a couple inches and adjusted the box. Got it pretty close, no bind or drag when turning steering wheel. It helped a lot. Still have a little play, about 4". Crawled under car blocked up to check tie rods, inner and outer, seems like play in inner rods after grabbing and twisting my wrist, moves a lot, especially where inner connects to drag link. Would this be the inner or drag link, or both. Hard to tell. Seems the same on both sides. The outer rods seem tight. Only thing is, I can grap the connecting sleeve and move the sleeve freely. What's that, bad sleeves? I'm 70 years old and recovering from heart, neck (Vietnam), and back surgery. So I'm limited on how long I can go in a day but have to keep trying. I can buy a kit that has L/R inner and outer tie rods plus connecting sleeves. Also comes with cotter pins, rubber seals/boots, zinc fittings, tie rod sleeve bolts, nuts, and clamps from A-resto parts out of Utah. Any suggestions on the play I described.
 
The drag links have an adjustment on them as well, keeping it greased is key to having them last a long time. The ball-stud should be tight and not sloppy. Try to isolate that as what's loose. If you have a shop manual, it should detail how to adjust it.

Tie rods twisting is pretty normal, of course new ones are a lot tighter. Get a small pry bar and see if you have any in & out play.
 
Ordered new inner, outer tie rods, connecting sleeves, upper control arms and stabilizer. Ball joints are okay. Will adjust drag link. Should help with steering.
 
If you simply drop the outer tie rod ends off the spindles and remove anything you want, then re-install, simply screw the sleeves on each end and screw on the tie rod ends until the studs will go up into the hole in the spindle WITHOUT MOVING THE TIRE). But, if during the process of removal or installation, the wheel are bumped, moved or even in the car was elevated after the tie rod ends are removed, you will not be able to get it right without doing your own preliminary alignment.
 
Tie rod sleeves are not normally in need of replacement as they do not "wear", however all parts with ball joints do become worn. Keep all ball joints well greased and they will incur less wear and last longer.
 
If you are replacing control arm bushings, it will not be possible to retain your current alignment since elevating the car frame will be involved. This will change the position of the wheels.
To do a preliminary toe-in alignment (after everything is installed), take two pieces of string (one for each side). String needs to be long enough to wrap around rear axle housing then around the back of the tire and then up to the front bumper of the car.
Tie large steel hex nuts to the ends of each piece of string.
The nut on the rear end will hold the string in place while you stretch the string up to the front of the car. hold the string up against the front tire and push the side of the tire until the string meets with both the front and back edges of the tire. Install the tie rod end by rotating the end joint in the sleeve until the stud goes easily into the hole in the spindle without moving the tire. Now do same thing for other side.
You can now unscrew both ends evenly to achieve about a 1/8 inch longer measurement between the back of the front tires and the front of the tires. This will get your toe-in adjustment very close.
 
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