steering column

J

jdjj

Member
Has anyone modified a 1935 to 1939 steering column to be able to use original banjo wheel and connect to vega box?
 
This is not really a hot rod site. Vegan boxes are better suited for a different website.

I bet you would get a hundred answers about swapping to a 40 Ford box though.
 
If the 35/39 steering shaft is disconnected from the 35/39 steering box it will be necessary to center and stabilize the shaft at the bottom of the column tube by using a second column rubber bushing. It will also be necessary to put some sort of a stop bracket on the shaft to prevent it from moving up and in the column. The steering lock collar could conceivably be repurposed for this off label application. A steering shaft universal joint can be used to connect the 35/39 shaft to the Vaga shaft. The most difficult problem is routing the horn wire thru the U joint and out to a circular friction contact plate. Not impossible but definitely challenging.
 
Could also check out Limeworks. They make stock looking steering columns that will let you use a stock wheel and the Vega box.
 
Wheelbarrow wheel bearings can be used in the end of the column to keep the shaft centered in the tube before installing the u-joint. They are available in several sizes, and are cost effective.
 
don35 said:
Wheelbarrow wheel bearings can be used in the end of the column to keep the shaft centered in the tube before installing the u-joint. They are available in several sizes, and are cost effective.
Click to expand...

I used the wheel barrow bearing on the bottom of the column and a steel collar to hold it in place. All available at Ace Hardware. Use the shaft from the stock box and modify the bottom end to take a universal joint. You will also need to get a bearing for the top of the shaft and get rid of the old bushing. You can get the bearing and collar from most of the V-8 parts vendors.
 
BoxCar Tom said:
If the 35/39 steering shaft is disconnected from the 35/39 steering box it will be necessary to center and stabilize the shaft at the bottom of the column tube by using a second column rubber bushing. It will also be necessary to put some sort of a stop bracket on the shaft to prevent it from moving up and in the column. The steering lock collar could conceivably be repurposed for this off label application. A steering shaft universal joint can be used to connect the 35/39 shaft to the Vaga shaft. The most difficult problem is routing the horn wire thru the U joint and out to a circular friction contact plate. Not impossible but definitely challenging.
Click to expand...

"BoxCar Tom" has it pretty-well figured-out here. Keeping in mind that there is not likely any REASONABLE way to run a horn wire up through a U-joint, you can pretty easily assemble a SLIP RING affair to get that ground wire INSIDE that original steering shaft and on up to the GROUNDING horn button. The pics below are some that I came across several years ago showing a simple method of fitting a brass slip ring onto the center shaft, but note that the slip ring must be INSULATED from the shaft electrically (as seen in 1st picture BELOW). I would place this ring on the shaft down toward the floor so that the one strand of exposed wire (run along the outer surface, on the under side of steering COLUMN) will be minimal in exposed length. An example of this wire coming FROM horns is simulated by the red test-lead in picture #2 BELOW.


494911



494914



Using a few parts available at Limeworks & others, a rectangular transition fixture can be built to mount over a hole which must be drilled in bottom of steering column at a position corresponding with the internal slip ring on shaft. This rectangular fixture which can be seen in picture #3 will have a spring-loaded, conductive button that will make contact with the slip ring as the steering wheel is turned. Provision must be made to attach the permanent wire from the horns to the spring-loaded button, such as a spade connector. Remember, the whole idea here is to get power to the horns, then exit the horns and routed up to the horn button. Then, pressing the horn button simply completes the grounding of that wire from the horns via the original button assembly.

As seen in photo #4, the final wire coming down from the horn button (also represented by the black wire seen in pic #2) must EXIT the center of the shaft via a hole which you need to drill and taper in the shaft right next to the slip ring. You want to massage/taper the edges of this hole to do away with any sharp edges, so as NOT to cut or damage the insulation on the BLACK wire. Finally, that wire must be soldered to the brass ring, and fed up to the original horn button apparatus, waiting to be grounded.

Remember, all of these connections must be carefully insulated, because grounding any part of this circuit is what blows the horns.

Coop


494913



494912
 
Little more info. Wheel barrow bearings are 3/4"; all the Ford shafts I've used are a slight bit larger. Easiest if you have access is turn the shaft slightly on a lathe; other wise a little work with a die grinder to open the hole in bearing and the stop collar will do.

The top bearing I use is an F-1 bearing; they drive down into the tube pretty easily. The you need one of those white plastic cones and spring to finish the top. I make the contact ring on the shaft out of a copper pipe coupling and a plastic coupling, sanded down to fit and insulate the copper from the shaft. JB weld the pieces to shaft.

The brush assy I use is like the one in the posted picture. It is a Jeep part.

Then you need to secure the column at the floor; I usually make a sheet metal piece with a hole in the middle and weld it to the tube and screw it to the floor.

I haven't done a column with a banjo wheel so I don't know what you need to do with the horn rod and button; be interesting to know how someone did it for future reference.

You need to figure out how you are going to connect the U-joint to the shaft. Probably get hollered at; but welding always seemed the best way for me.
 
This is what I was thinking of when I mentioned a circular friction contact plate. The fixed contact plate is attached to the column tube and the rotating contact plate is attached to the steering shaft. The horn wire exits the shaft and is attached to the rotating rotating contact plate. The horn wire the steering shaft and the rotating contact plate all move together in unison so the wire never winds up. The picture (double contact) is an example of the design concept.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1578.jpg
    IMG_1578.jpg
    45.8 KB · Views: 215
BoxCar Tom said:
This is what I was thinking of when I mentioned a circular friction contact plate. The fixed contact plate is attached to the column tube and the rotating contact plate is attached to the steering shaft. The horn wire exits the shaft and is attached to the rotating rotating contact plate. The horn wire the steering shaft and the rotating contact plate all move together in unison so the wire never winds up. The picture (double contact) is an example of the design concept.
Click to expand...
495133
 
I did state "the problem is routing the horn wire thru the U joint". It is conceivable the horn wire could exit at the end of the shaft do a right angle turn without actually going thru the U joint. Once the wire is outside the shaft/U joint it can be routed to and attached to the circular friction contact plate. Of course this issue can be eliminated by simply drilling a hole to allow the wire to exit the steering shaft above the U joint. BoxCar Tom
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top