Steering column upper bushing removal

[roblesterjr04]

probably an easy question, how do I remove the upper bushing on a 29 steering column? Also how can I prevent the spark and throttle handles from binding? I managed to remove the old ones, but I'm not sure how to keep the new ones from binding like the old ones did. Any advise on refurbing this?

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Remove any screws from the top bushing, then stick a steel rod inside the column and shake it upside down. The rod will knock the bushing out. I assume this is a 2 tooth column. Either way, 2 tooth or 7 tooth, the steering shaft needs to be removed first.

 

[roblesterjr04]

Its a 7 tooth. How do i remove the steering shaft?

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

You'll have to remove the steering wheel, then take the steering box apart. When you remove the 4 bolts on the bottom plate you will find some thin shims, so be carefull not to loose or damage them. These set the freeplay for the steering shaft. Once you remove the side plate and shaft, then the bottom plate, the steering shaft will come out the bottom.

If you don't own a copy of the SERVICE BULLETINS, you should get a copy. They cost about $17 for the paperback issue.
Bratton's part #37340 cost is $16.50
Ph. 800-255-1929

 

[oldbike99]

Be very careful removing the steering wheel from the shaft, as it is very easy to ruin the threads that retain it. I would strongly suggest purchasing a steering wheel puller from one of the venders, as they are not very expensive. Also, if this is a coupe or pickup, you will most likely need to remove the sector from the vehicle first, due to lack of room to pull out the horn button and shaft

 

[roblesterjr04]

Thanks guys, the column is already out of the car, and steering wheel slid off without any issue. It's a splined wheel. I've already removed the side plate and the sector. I don't recall a bottom plate. I'll have to send pictures when I return home and can look closely at the bottom of the column.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

I've seen a couple of bottom plates where the light switch retainer turns on the plate, so if your's is loose, be sure to stake it in place while the plate is off.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Here are some pictures of a very rusty spare 7 tooth column I have. Too bad the top isn't greased up like the bottom. The top bushing looks mint, and I'll try to save it. The pictures of the bottom bushing and retainer are of an NOS part I bought off ebay. By looking at the lines in the bushing I really have my doubts about it being NOS as advertised, unless Ford made a rough bushing that the customer had to ream to fit.

You can see the line around the flat light switch retainer plate where it was swaged to the bushing retainer. This is where I had to stake a couple loose plates for customers years ago.

 

[roblesterjr04]

Thanks! This is really helpful.

I had to remove my spark/throttle rods by using a cutting wheel on the control arm end and pulling them out from the top. I'm assuming the easiest way to get them back in is by installing them with the new bushing at the same time. Is there anything I should do to grease or otherwise lube the bushing(?) thats midway in the column? I'd like these handles to move effortlessly. The old ones needed a lot of force.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yes, I would install the rods in the bushing, then the bushing in the column. The original anti rattle was about a 1/2" piece of rubber tubing midway on the rods. The replacements today are felt. Did you save your old forged arms at the ends of the rods? They are held in place by a small pin that needs to be driven out after the head is ground off. I think some people now use a roll pin as a replacement.

 

[roblesterjr04]

I purchased all new pins, springs, and control arms with new nickel lever-rods. I probably have the original rubber anti-rattle. Should I replace that?

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

The original rubber may be quite flat on one side and may even have spit. Whether you use rubber or felt probably isn't a big deal, and either one should stop the rattles.

 

[roblesterjr04]

Will using the original rubber cause me any issues in the movement of the rods? Is it safe to say my stiffness will be cured with the new upper bushing?

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Rubber will be no problem. My 28 was very stiff for both rods when I bought the car. I just kept oiling the moving parts and they got looser, even though they are still stiff compared to using new parts. They stay where I put them, so that fine because the serations are pretty flat.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

BTW, here's a tool I made to make installing the levers and pins a lot easier. If I made another tool I'd use the needle nose Vice Grip, rather than the short one from the dollar store.

Recently a machinist said his shop was slow and was looking for something to make. This and several other special Model A tools might be worth looking into for his shop.

 

[roblesterjr04]

Wow, pretty sweet tool. I didn't even think of that... how would I do that without the special tool? Are there any tricks? Or do I just have to curse at it for an hour to make it do my bidding?

 

[roblesterjr04]

So I'm half way in to this. I got my steering shaft out, but realized I'm missing the lower plate. I have the flanged lower bushing, but no plate to hold it in. Any ideas where I can get one? I bought this column second hand not realizing it was missing the lower plate.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Are you saying you have the bottom bushing and the spool shaped steel it fits into, but you are missing the flat plate with the bail wire ears and 4 bolt holes?

I'd give Bert's a call. 800-321-1931

 

[roblesterjr04]

Thanks, bert has it.

 

[roblesterjr04]

Hey guys, me again.

So i've got my steering column back from being sandblasted and powder coated. I'm having a small issue. I installed the upper bushing and rods, and they look great, but i did this BEFORE installing the shaft... I'm assuming this is why now the lower part of the shaft does not sit dead center of the column, and so my lower bushing won't slide in unless I attempt to heavily oil it and whack it with a mallet. I would prefer not to remove my upper bushing because it was a royal pain to get in. I'm assuming if I had the shaft and lower bushing installed before the upper bushing, the shaft would have just flexed. I thought maybe the shaft was bowed, so i tried rotating it, and it still doesn't line up at the bottom (in the same spot)Its only off by like 1/32 so i'm wondering if thats ok, and I can just lube it heavily and pound it in. Going off the premise that none of this was built to precision.