Steering column broke in half

On a model t the tube counters the torque applied to the steering wheel & hence vital the the steering. On a model A it does not serve that function. I have seen cars where the whole tube was removed to no ill effects, but i am not saying you should do that though.
 
Thanks to all who responded. The wheel still won't come off in spite of trying several of your suggestions including Bill Williamson's method of rocking the wheel with stiff arms and moving the body left and right. With the column broken in half, it's not fixed enough, it seems, to let this method work.

My wheel fastener is not the same as shown in the supplier's replacement parts where they show a flat 15/16" nut holding the wheel on the male threaded shaft. Mine is a 3/4" hollow shafted nut with a 1" long thread that screws down into female threads in the steering shaft. See attached photo. While hard to see because the wheel is not off yet, it appears the steering shaft is also threaded on its outside diameter. The wheel has two key ways but only one is used. The other one is open and I can push a small screwdriver through it and hit the spark quadrant.
While I may not be able to get to it until tomorrow, my next move will be to attach a heavy bolt eye to the ceiling of my garage, wrap the steering wheel with heavy cargo straps and us a come-along to winch the wheel off. It's on so tight, though, that I may end up dragging the car across the garage floor before it lets loose.

If anyone has seen this type of wheel attachment and can suggest other ways to get it off, please let me know.

I'll keep you posted on any progress......Glen
 

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If you look at a $40.00 (+) steering wheel puller in a Model A parts catalog, it appears possible to quickly make a somewhat similar puller with bolts & 2x4's with:

1. Two (2) twelve inch long slightly shaped 2x4's placed behind steering wheel, (engine side); and,

2. One (1) perpendicular twelve inch long 2x4 placed on top of steering wheel, ( 90 degrees to the bottom 2x4's) where same can be fixed and tightened with two (2) half-inch (1/2") diameter through bolts, one on each side of the steering column; and,

3. Provide a hole in the center of the top 2x4 with a 1/2" wing nut with the two arms carefully carved and recessed into the bottom side, (steering wheel), side of this top 2x4; and,

4. On the bolt that goes through this top 2x4, provide and grind a slight point on the threaded bottom end of this bolt to fit in the shaft hole .... apply tension with the other two outer bolts while turning and subsequently tapping on this top center bolt.

Difficult to see what exactly you have, but maybe worth a try.
 
The steering wheel pullers that the vendors have are worthless. The one I bought bent all out of shape and didn't even budge the wheel.

What I ended up doing was (this is on a '31): after taking the horn rod out, drilling and tapping ¼-20 holes in the metal on two opposing spokes, then using a "real" wheel puller, pulling it right off. Make sure that the delicate threads on the shaft itself are well protected. The tapped holes do not show once the horn rod is put back in.
 
Thanks so much to all of you for your suggestions. Nothing Worked until I tried a shade tree mechanic approach. See photo. I wrapped a chain around the shade tree, then attached a come-along winch to the chain. Then wrapped a cargo strap around the steering wheel and attached that to the 2 ton come-along. I backed the car down the incline toward the tree to get the correct pull angle on the steering column and started to winch it up. Only problem was the winch dragged the car toward the tree even with the hand brake on, in gear and wheels chocked.
To prevent the A from sliding on the driveway, I attached a cable from the front axle to the hitch on my Yukon and took up the slack so tightening the winch would have to drag both vehicles which I was confident it would not do.
I tightened the winch to the point I was afraid the straps would break but the wheel still would not budge. With all this pulling pressure on the wheel, I alternately beat on the rear of the steering wheel spokes with a sledge hammer. After about 20 shots, it finally let loose and luckily with no damage to the shaft end.
So, with the column now out of the car, hopefully I can get it welded back together again tomorrow and put it back together in time for the show on Sat. After all this, the forecast for Sat is 75 percent rain so all the headaches the past two days may be in vain anyway.

I am truly amazed about the guys on the Barn who always seem to be there when you need some help. Thank you all again.

Glen
 

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Lona,
Helping folks is the NAME OF THE GAME, along with a little "HUMOR" to help with lifes' "TRAUMAS"--SMILE, life here is SHORT!
Bill W.
 
If you haven't buggered up your steering wheel trying to get it off, cherish it. It is an original steering wheel used after Model A production on big Ford trucks through 1936. It is the same as a Model A and made of Bakelite but the center of the recessed area in the hub is not as shallow as the Model A. Still works fine on a Model A. The same light switch was used as the Model A but the rod was a different length. When you put it back on, use a little of Tom's red grease around the keyway so you can get it back off a little easier. Dale.
 
Lona said:
Thanks so much to all of you for your suggestions. Nothing Worked until I tried a shade tree mechanic approach. See photo. I wrapped a chain around the shade tree, then attached a come-along winch to the chain. Then wrapped a cargo strap around the steering wheel and attached that to the 2 ton come-along. I backed the car down the incline toward the tree to get the correct pull angle on the steering column and started to winch it up. Only problem was the winch dragged the car toward the tree even with the hand brake on, in gear and wheels chocked.
To prevent the A from sliding on the driveway, I attached a cable from the front axle to the hitch on my Yukon and took up the slack so tightening the winch would have to drag both vehicles which I was confident it would not do.
I tightened the winch to the point I was afraid the straps would break but the wheel still would not budge. With all this pulling pressure on the wheel, I alternately beat on the rear of the steering wheel spokes with a sledge hammer. After about 20 shots, it finally let loose and luckily with no damage to the shaft end.
So, with the column now out of the car, hopefully I can get it welded back together again tomorrow and put it back together in time for the show on Sat. After all this, the forecast for Sat is 75 percent rain so all the headaches the past two days may be in vain anyway.

I am truly amazed about the guys on the Barn who always seem to be there when you need some help. Thank you all again.

Glen
Click to expand...

Glen, your pic does not enlarge, can you re post, that would be a fun pic to look at.

You may have killed two birds with one stone and pulled some sag out of your chassis ....
 
Dale G. said:
If you haven't buggered up your steering wheel trying to get it off, cherish it. It is an original steering wheel used after Model A production on big Ford trucks through 1936. It is the same as a Model A and made of Bakelite but the center of the recessed area in the hub is not as shallow as the Model A. Still works fine on a Model A. The same light switch was used as the Model A but the rod was a different length. When you put it back on, use a little of Tom's red grease around the keyway so you can get it back off a little easier. Dale.
Click to expand...

According to Vince's site it is not the same as the A.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/BBsteeringwheel.htm

Bob
 
Dale G. said:
If you haven't buggered up your steering wheel trying to get it off, cherish it. It is an original steering wheel used after Model A production on big Ford trucks through 1936. It is the same as a Model A and made of Bakelite but the center of the recessed area in the hub is not as shallow as the Model A. Still works fine on a Model A. The same light switch was used as the Model A but the rod was a different length. When you put it back on, use a little of Tom's red grease around the keyway so you can get it back off a little easier. Dale.
Click to expand...

Dale,
Interesting that you identify my steering wheel as one from a truck. I thought something was odd about the setup because the shaft and wheel fastening nut is not the same as shown in the parts catalogs or Andrew's books for standard model A's. Would this mean also that the shaft is from a truck, and if so, is the steering box also from a truck? It looks like all the photos I have seen of a standard 2 tooth box.
I intend to grease it up a little after the column is repaired because the wheel needs to come off again when I replace the repaired column with a good one soon as the fall shows and tours are over.

Glen
 
Hi Glen,

No doubt just as many amazing and ingenious original thoughts occurred under a shade tree than that of inside of a Full Service Ford Dealer Shop.

You had questions like a Model A student ..... but, now you are a Model A Professor.

Thanks!
 
Pooch,
Don't know why the photo wouldn't enlarge. Attached is a second try. Would you know why it didn't enlarge so I can post properly in the future?

Glen
 

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This happened to me about a month ago with my 28 roadster and I was lucky I was not seriously injured. It broke in a way that I was able to stop my car and maneuver it a 1/4? mile to a friends business. I had the 7 spline? changed out to a 2 spline and put in a remanufactured 1929 unit. I have had everything mechanically in or under my car replaced or repaired. I spent $4025 doing this but I am enjoying my car with safety. I really love my roadster more than any street rod. I also have a 64 T-Bird but my roadster is my dream car. You can't put a price on your life. I say fix it right or possibly suffer the consequences.
 
I think that's right up there with the top 10 crazy and ingenious ways of working on a Model A. I think if some one did a calendar with Model A fixes on it this would be a top
contender.
Great picture, thanks
 
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