Steering column broke in half

Lona

Well-known member
The steering column in my '31 roadster broke in half today. Attached is a photo (if I can get it to load). The break is near the firewall at an old weld on the column done by a previous owner and I don't know why it was cut then. Since We have several shows coming up, I would like to remove the column only and weld on an overlapping sleeve for a temp fix until another column can be located.

Les Andrews book only shows removal of the whole steering assembly including the steering box. It looks like the column detaches from the steering box but can anyone help me with how to remove the column itself without the whole assembly? Will the column come out if I detach the steering wheel and slide the column up and out?

Also, since the outer column appears to only be a cover for the steering rod and lighting/horn wiring, would it be safe to drive it with the broken column until I can make a permanent fix?

Glen
 

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Looks like it was fixed (welded) once before.
As for driving it. my gut feeling would be a big no.
You have two choices for pulling the unit, through the bottom or through the top.
Through the bottom you have to remove the steering wheel, floorboards and jack the car up.
Through the top disconnect everything from the steering box, remove the floorboards, brake and clutch pedals, and maybe the starter.
Others may have different suggestions, but to re-build my steering box this winter, I'll be going out through the top...most likely. (no steering wheel puller)
 
Yowch! Bad break! I had a similar break on a AA column a while back, sorry to inform you it will all have to come out to repair it properly. Is your steering gear box affixed solidly to the frame? Thankfully you have it in a roadster so pulling it out shouldn't take more than a half hour. Once out on the bench you can pull the wheel, remove throttle and spark rods then slide the shaft tube off for repair.
Let us know how it goes, and good luck!
 
No quick fix, and no driving until you fix it right. quickest way would be to replace the tube. that way after all the work it will be right.
before you do anything measure the tube. Then pm me. I have several. should plan to go thru the steering box at the same time while you have it apart.
Bob
 
Glen,

So, this is just a break in the tube - rig'ht?

I've seen this before - -I been told it is caused by tightening the bottom bolts, then needing to push up on the column to get in into the gas tank bracket. Puts a load on the tube - -vibration - -etc.

Yes you can get just the tube out of the car, have it welded again and use it. (lucky you have an open car; closed car it's a no go.

You probably know what to do - -remove steering wheel, unhook the rods, loosen the tube bracket, (lower the top). Take out the screws at the gas tank. I think that's it - -it should come out.

When you put it back, loosen the bolts on the box/frame. Tighten them after you have the gas tank bracket secure.

Good luck
 
Yowch! Bad break! I had a similar break on a AA column a while back, sorry to inform you it will all have to come out to repair it properly. Is your steering gear box affixed solidly to the frame? Thankfully you have it in a roadster so pulling it out shouldn't take more than a half hour. Once out on the bench you can pull the wheel, remove throttle and spark rods then slide the shaft tube off for repair.
Let us know how it goes, and good luck!

Farrell,
The steering box is bolted to the frame. If I can pull the steering wheel and control rods with the whole assembly on the bench and then slide the tube off as you say, wouldn't it also be possible to do the same thing in the car without fooling with the steering box? I fully intend to replace the broken tube with a good one but I'm looking for a temp but safe fix in order to have the car at one of our biggest shows this Saturday.

Glen
 
I guess I didn't explain very well - -yes you can pull just the tube - -no need to pull the box.

By the way - -welding is not a very good fix, it's temporary at best - -this is great chance to get a new good tube and put in new shiny spark and throttle rods - -
 
Hi Glen'

It is all about playing the odds.

Here is just one (1) example:

In my humble opinion, with anyone driving with a Model A on today's highways with a steering column like that is about as dangerous as:

1. Going to a Garage Sale; and,

2. Buying a used, broken electric toaster; and,

3. Wrapping it in gift wrap; and,

4. Presenting it to one's wife on Christmas morning ......... while she has a large, hard maple pastry rolling pin in her hand.

Not really a highly technical, mechanical engineering suggestion .......... but .... just hope this helps to remind you to maybe call Steve at Bert's for a good used replacement.
 
With only the tube to replace and in a roadster with plenty of room above it should only take a couple of hours to replace it.
I would not drive it until I could inspect the shaft. It is suspicious in as much as I would inspect to ensure it too has not been cut and welded.
 
Thanks to all for your input so far. At this point everything is apart ready to pull the tube but I'm having trouble getting the steering wheel off.....don't have a wheel puller. Have it soaking with WD40 for a few hours while I invent a puller. Anyone have any other tricks to get the wheel off?

Glen
 
extreme care tapping on the threaded top of the column. takes a special puller IMHO.
Nothing is simple on a model a, especially the first time thru.
You need a puller, or a relieved nut that will not put stress on those paper thin and fragile threads.
 
For a temporary fix you could even weld that tube in place without removing anything more than the top floorboard if need be.
 
I agree with Tom Wesenberg that it can be repaired right in the car for a quick fix. I repaired my column which had cracked in the same place and the repair has lasted for years.
 
Glen,
I have removed my wheel without a puller.
Sitting behind the wheel, turn the wheel in the plus position, ( + ) and with open palms, hit the wheel upwards on the intersections of the spoke and the ring, left, right, left, right. Try to set up a L, R vibration rather than brute force. Turn the wheel 90 degrees and repeat.

I have had success with removing the wheel on my A as well as my Chevy.

Take care not to break or crack the wheel.

Good luck and enjoy the show.
 
Glen,
I have removed my wheel without a puller.
Sitting behind the wheel, turn the wheel in the plus position, ( + ) and with open palms, hit the wheel upwards on the intersections of the spoke and the ring, left, right, left, right. Try to set up a L, R vibration rather than brute force. Turn the wheel 90 degrees and repeat.

I have had success with removing the wheel on my A as well as my Chevy.

Take care not to break or crack the wheel.

Good luck and enjoy the show.

ill try that on newer iron before i get the puller out by bracing on the brake pedal,,,but on an old wheel it will crack... thats why i didnt mention it earlier when the OP asked..
 
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Here is just one (1) totally "impossible" scenario that could never happen in 1,000 years to any Model A owner:

1. After welding, Glen gets in a wreck with his Model A where someone is injured in the collision; and,

2. An attorney gets his hands on a copy of the attached thumbnail photo in Post No. 1, and subsequently photographs the repair weld for comparison; and,

3. Two (2) or three (3) expert mechanic witnesses come in court to give their opinions; and,

4. The jury sees these two (2) photos and listens to the expert witnesses; and,

5. Try to guess what is the most "impossible" decision that would never come out of these most intelligent jurors as to who will pay for the injured guy's therapy and wheel chair pushing nurse for life.

Sometimes repair advice often sounds great ..... that is ...... as long as it is a repair recommended for somebody else's car.
 
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