Steering box mounting nut

[flybob08]

Should the steering box mounting nut go on the inside of the frame rail by the steering box or should it be on the outside of the frame rail (on the wheel-well side) by the Pitman arm?

Thanks

 

[ursus]

It goes in from inside the frame rail. Given the tight clearance, it would be difficult to do it from the outside, spin on the nut, and place the split pin.

 

[Benson]

Re: Steering box mounting nut EXCESSIVE STEERING WHEEL PLAY

The mounting bolts are special hardened bolts with shoulders, not standard hardware store bolts.

1. Look closely at the old mounting bolts for the steering column for wear on the bolts themselves in the area of the shoulders.

2. If shoulders are worn it will allow movement of the column which will allow excessive play in steering wheel.

3. If holes in frame are worn oblong the same movement problem will exist.

4. Bolts must be tight.


Click to see a photo of special bolts. Never mind can not post the URL for the photo


In my case this repair reduced the steering wheel play from 2 1/2 inches to 1/2 inch.

The shoulders on the bolts on my car were excessively worn and bolts were loose.

 

[flybob08]

Many thanks- my bolts were in backwards and appeared to be hardware store variety. I was concerned that putting new bolts in with nuts on the outside might interfere with the Pittman arm.

 

[Mister Moose]

The original style bolts have a flaw. The threaded portion is too long, the bearing surface of the frame is on threads, not the bolt shank. You not only can egg out the holes in the frame, but the load will crush the threads and give even more slop. Once you have a little enlarged holes in the frame you either need some fancy welding and accurate re-drilling, or you need a bolt with a longer shank so that the shank bears on the frame not the threads.

Take a look an an AN7-11 aircraft bolt. It is strong, it is drilled for the cotter pin, and it has a longer shank.

Left to right:
Original bolt from car, note the shank wear and crushed threads.
New bolt from Model A parts store.
New AN7-12 bolt, Cad plated. (This an AN7-12, the correct length is AN7-11. Yes, that little extra length will cause it to hit the pitman arm.)

 

[Ruth]

The "Red" book has a drawing of the steering bolts showing the nuts on the outside of the frame rail.

 

[Ruth]

Left to right:
Original bolt from car, note the shank wear and crushed threads.
New bolt from Model A parts store.
New AN7-12 bolt, Cad plated. (This an AN7-12, the correct length is AN7-11)

I wonder is the AN7 bolt too long and hit the pitman arm?

Edit: I reread your post and you already answered my question.

Thanks for the info Mister Moose.

 

[Big hammer]

Flat washers under the bolt head would decrease the length, but also decrease the shank, may still work

 

[flybob08]

Thanks for the help!!!

Bob

 

[flybob08]

Ordered the AN7-11 drilled shank

Thanks