Steering Box inter changeability?

Roothawg

Roothawg

Member
Guys,

I am building a 35 Ford shop truck out of cast off parts and I am needing a steering box and column. I am looking for the smoother action and I have heard that the later boxes had improvements over the earlier ones. I am looking at a 1940 pass car with the column shift.

What is the best box that will still bolt up in the 35-40 Frame? Will the later boxes ( say 1946-48) have the same footprint? I am thinking they are different but just want to verify.

Thanks

Root
 
The later boxes have the same footprint as a 37-up box. Just the column length is a bit longer.
I used a 48 box in my 40 and shortened the shaft to the 40 length.

But a 37-up box won't bolt into a 35 - you will need a 37-up bracket - I believe they are available new. (repro)

Mart.
 
Matt-

If you are not too choosy you can use a '37-'48 box with a '35 or '36 frame plate. You just need to drill an new hole approximately 3/4" below the upper mounting bolt hole in the replacing steering gear housing. It will then bolt directly to the original frame plate. In my opinion it is kind of odd looking but it does work.

Tom
 
I put a 37 box in my 36. It took some modification to make it work but it sure steers easy.
I think Vern Tardell sells a mounting plate now for the swap.
Cal
 
I put a `37 steering box in my `35. You can either modify your bracket or replace it with a later one. Well worth the time and effort required.

Many thanks to Flatheadfan for his assistance.

Shadetree
 
Thanks guys.

I am torn. The truck is going to look virtually stock to the untrained eye. I do want it a little more reliable. My pipe dream is to sell my modern daily and drive this everyday.

So Mart, did you shorten the shaft in the middle or did you disassemble everything?
 
Root, no disassembly (of the box) Just cut about 12" down from the top, shorten to length, deep v groove and weld. Make sure the wheel is clocked as original. If you have working steering lock, you may need to make sure that ends up in the right place.

Mart.
 
root if you want to keep the truck as close as possable to orignal you must use the 37-39 assembly. the hole in the 40-48 shaft is to small to allow the light switch rod & has no mounting on the box bottom for the light shitch the 37-39 gear assembly are ez to find & not expensive
 
Roothgawg-

As others have stated this is not a complicated swap and can be done in an afternoon once you have the parts. However, one problem that frequently comes up is hooking up your lighting switch at the bottom of the steering box. You need to use a '37-'39 light switch bracket. A '35-'36 will not work. To the best of my knowledge nobody is making this part. This means you you need to come-up with a work-around or undertake a hunt. Personally, I would have this part in hand before I started.

If it would help I have some instructions that might be useful in making this swap along with some pictures. If interested send me you email addy (PM would be fine).

Tom
 
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I wasn't going to bring this up but you guys have outed me. OK, I'll fess up.....
The truck is not going to be a restoration, it will be more of a hot rod.

Here's the plan.....

I was building this out of cast off parts and I got a 350 Chevrolet motor in trade. The truck will appear stock for all practical purposes, sheetmetal, gauges, seat,steering column, tires etc.

I have accumulated everything I need except a wiring harness etc, that's why I am not too concerned about the horn etc.

I'm just not a flathead guy, I like them and appreciate them, but I am first and foremost CHEAP. This will have to be able to pull a trailer with my race car on it and thus the sbc.

Sorry, I was trying to keep the hot rod stuff off of your forums.
 
On the length issue...measure from bottom of main shaft, visible in hole at bottom of the box, to the top. There are a bunch of variants that are the same length as 1935...the dimenson is also carried in the parts book to ID parts, so if someone is selling a particular box I can look up that dimension. If not using the stock switch, this gets you going. From there, only issue is drilling and tapping a new hole for the locking ring to put it at the right height to match the 1935 lock. I think this hole is the only real variation '37-40, and from memory I think some later pickup ones are also right overall length.
 
If you are using the C^*#y motor be sure to use the early exhaust manifolds(55-57) to clear the steering box and keep the heat away from it. Too much heat near the box is a killer for the steering.
 
Did ford move the box back a bit on the frame rail in 37? (w the new style box)

When I put the 37 bracket and 40 box in my 35 I noticed that if I moved it back a little (½” I think it was) it all fit better w the Fenton header on that side.
It seams like iv seen the headers listed as 37 and up to???
 
OK...I think your truck is a 1/2 ton commercial '35, same frame as passenger.
End-to-end length for 50-3524, what that vehicle should have stock, is 46.50 inches according to the book.
'37 pickup and passenger, '38-9 pass and '38-41 pickup, '40 pss, 1941 sd, all share that length and are the later box. You should be able to measure this by removing lower cover and horn button. Later pickups and passenger are all longer. The difference between all those listings is just variations in lock hole location, and fixing that is a simple drill and tap to fit your column and lock.
 
For all these cars and trucks the Saginaw 525 is the best steering box, Feel good steer very easy.
 
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