steering box fluid?

Need to fix it so it doesn't leak. Usual culprit is the brass tube at the bottom that is crimped to the bottom plate - they come loose or wear through or break. There was just another thread on this subject. Otherwise, the 32-34's have no seal on the sector shaft (where it exits the housing and goes through the frame) just a cork, which does little or no good. We machine the housing and install a seal, but have to take it out/apart to do this.

Once leakproof, the filler cap says "heavy gear oil" so can use 600W which is nice and thick but will still migrate to where it is needed; others use 140W. I do not recommend STP, but it is still a "free country"???
 
Richard (EV8G) said:
Once leakproof, the filler cap says "heavy gear oil" so can use 600W which is nice and thick but will still migrate to where it is needed; others use 140W. I do not recommend STP, but it is still a "free country"???
Click to expand...

I'm not and STP fan either. It's more of an oil additive than a lubricant it self.

The most common 600W still produced is Mobil 600W cylinder oil...

http://www.exxonmobil.com/USA-English/Marine/PDS/GLXXENMRNEMMobil600WSuperCylinderOil.aspx

...which is an ISO viscosity 460. This is equivalent to SAE 140 gear oil, as seen on the chart below. It is still a better choice, as the additives are designed for worm gears, rather than helical gears which most modern gear lubes are designed for.

viscosity_chart.jpg


Another option, which I use, is Semi-Fluid EP (Extreme Pressure) grease, NLGI 00. This is designed for industrial gear boxes where lubricants have a "low residency time"...ie, they leak. It does stay put, where the lighter gear lubes will leak out, but is still fluid enough to provide good lubrication.

I work for a lubricants distributor, so I got a 16 gallon barrel of the stuff, but I have seen it packaged in quart squeeze bottles as well.

Neal
 
Since some folks are not familiar with the HAMB and search engines, I will type this out again.
First off we are talking about steering gears with a worm and roller or a worm and pin as typical in old Fords.
With the car sitting on the floor rig up a spring scale to the steering wheel rim so you can measure force needed to move the front wheels..Rig a dial indicator on the left front tire to measure movement..With plain 90w or 140w oil in the steering box and the wheels set straight ahead pull on the scale untill the front wheel moves say 2 inches and record the scale reading..Repeat several times to get a good number..The actual number does not matter..
Now, drain the steering box completely..This may take overnight or longer if you have some really thick goo in it..Refill with a mixture of 50% 90w and 50% POWERPUNCH..
Cycle the steering completely back and forth several times.
Now, repeat the former test and record the results..
The force required will be considerably less.
If you don't want to be bothered with all this just take it out and drive it.
We have had a lot of people come back and say it now feels like power steering.
I personally use straight POWERPUNCH because I don't like to be bothered mixing the stuff.
 
I have been using STP for decades. By definition, it is not a lubricant, but it sure is SLICKY !
Do you remember the old TV commercial, where you could hold a screwdriver, upside down, by the tip of the blade, when dipped in oil ? True !
Try dipping it in STP. The harder you squeeze, the faster it shoots out of your fingers. True too ! TRY IT !
Works for me.
MIKE :)
 
I agree on the STP, whether it is technically a lubricant does not change the fact that it stays where you put it, and keeps surfaces from touching each other. I put it in a '50 steering box, and the difference in effort was incredible. If that's not lubricating, I don't know what to call it.
 
[/QUOTE]I personally use straight POWERPUNCH because I don't like to be bothered mixing the stuff.[/QUOTE]

Pete, which Powerpunch product are you refering to?
 
[QUOTE "low residency time"[/QUOTE]


This sounds like something an Engineer would come up with.

The next time I have a customer complaining about an Oil leak. I can now explain that "you do not have an oil leak, it is just that the oil has a Low Residency Time".

I am definately going to have to remember that one.:)

Chris
 
Last edited:
If the steering box is sealed up well, I use 600W oil.

If I do run across a steering box that does leak, I will use 1500W which usually will stay off the floor.

Chris
 
I personally use straight POWERPUNCH because I don't like to be bothered mixing the stuff.[/QUOTE]

Pete, which Powerpunch product are you refering to?[/QUOTE]

The thick gooey stuff that looks like STP...They are all just polymerized
oil.
It also makes good bearing assembly oil for an engine that is going directly into storage..(Bearings only, NOT RINGS)
 
I changed fron 600 w to STP and was amazed at the difference in ease of steering. I think STP and powerpunch are about the same accept STP costs less and is easier to find.
 
I use a low melting point grease which is the least expensive chassis grease on the shelf. It don't leak and the heat from the exhaust manifold keeps it thin. G.M.
 
Thanks everyone for the advice, I will flip a coin for either STP or 600w, the '33 Roadster is coming along great, can't wait to drive it around.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top