STEERING BOX djust

I am elated. The adjustment was time consuming, difficult but successful.
The magic number for my Box is 28 thousands after two previous shim stack trials.
Each attempt required the cone and steering tube to be pushed upwards with the steering wheel removed and the dash clamp loosened. And of course the Pittman arm was disconnected the entire time. One bolt on the cone at the housing was a bit difficult to reach and the operation required working above and below the car.
The slack in my wheel has been taken up and after I complete the other work will take Frank’ for a nice drive.
 
GOOD FOR YOU JW!!!

So now you understand the principle.

You have a FORD FLEX? I bought a TRANSIT some years ago and didn't realize it was built in TURKEY until a short time later.
 
Resurrecting this discussion. I spent the day yesterday disassembling and adjusting a gearbox that came from my parts car. With it on the workbench it is a relatively easy procedure. However, with no play in the center position there is quite a bit at either turn direction, much like the one in the video. The adjustments using a spring scale is within the specifications of the manual. So, I thought I'd try doing the quickest and easiest adjustment on the sector shaft on the box that is mounted in the car. I've determined that it is in much worse shape than the parts car box. Now that I know a replacement job is ahead of me I'm thinking I might as well do a full rebuild of my parts car box. A full kit is about $400. Has anyone done this and was it worth it?

This one is out of stock.
https://www.earlyfordstore.com/products/fad-3503-rbldkit-1954-1955-ford-car-steering-box-rebuild-kit

Dennis Carpenter wants the same amount of money for what appears to be fewer parts.
https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/cars/steering/steering-box/ad-3548-kit-kitsteering-box-rebuild-kit
 
You know?

One of these days I am going to learn to keep my mouth shut ...
 
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KULTULZ said:
... :eek: ... damn ...​

These people are smoking peyote or something. Ain't no four hundred dollars there. And what if you need a worm and/or sector gear?

You can get an exchange for 417.00

https://www.larrystbird.com/product/a3504g-steering-box-rebuild/
Click to expand...

Both of the kits include a worm and sector gear, did you even look? Rebuilding it myself insures have new parts. There is no telling what is in a "rebuild" from a vender.

Makes no difference anyway. I was too hasty in blaming the box for the play in the wheel. Further examination reveals it is the power steering control valve ball stud that moves in it's housing. I've had it apart two or three times so I know it is assembled correctly. I guess I'll just have to live with the play in the wheel.

Edit; I hate the repair manual being divided with a '54 section. It seems there is an adjustment procedure for the control valve ball stud. It looks like I'll be taking it apart again.
 
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Isn't that done from the outside on the end. You used to be able to get the stud and the sleeve for the end of the control rod. All the parts, you have to remember to grease it regularly. Maybe NOS vender now.
 
5851a said:
Isn't that done from the outside on the end. You used to be able to get the stud and the sleeve for the end of the control rod. All the parts, you have to remember to grease it regularly. Maybe NOS vender now.
Click to expand...

The little rod can be adjusted from the end. There is also an internal piece called a stop screw that can be tightened, but mine only took a flat to make it tight. It's all back together and I plan to test drive it in the morning when it is a little cooler. I have a feeling it won't be improved much.
 
You need pressure from the pump to take the last of the slack out of that stud. Having driven a 55 with the pump off, I can tell you it was very noticeable how much slack there was.
 
miker98038 said:
You need pressure from the pump to take the last of the slack out of that stud. Having driven a 55 with the pump off, I can tell you it was very noticeable how much slack there was.
Click to expand...

That is one thing I have not done. I have not measured the pressure. Just what I need, another item on the to-do list.
 
It’s a very noticeable difference if there’s pressure. I’ve seen those pumps leak, but I’ve never seen one not making pressure. How’s the turning effort with it all hooked up?
 
The turning effort is easier than when the engine isn't running but not as easy as my '67 Chev. It's a project for next week. Going to Galveston for a few days.
 
I did the first pressure check in the manual. With the engine at idle, warmed up the book calls for 12 pounds effort with a spring scale to turn the steering wheel in both directions. It is a bit above 12, but not by much so I'm ruling out a pressure problem.
 
The only way I can see to limit the movement is to take some material off the internal stop (called a stop plug in the manual). If I had another stop plug for if it didn't work I would.
 
I tried taking all the play out of the valve with a shim. That was a fail. It totally turns the power steering off. I would still like to know if that much ball stud lateral play is normal.
 
Taking the chance of getting dressed down once again, all of this was discussed/settled on another thread.
 
Very nice and a lot to absorb. Thank you. The Part number might come in handy.

The bumper spring in mine is too weak apparently. The bumper is touching the ball stud seat, so in effect there is no spring at all. However the ball stud moves, and it appears to move a lot. I was hoping someone could look at the video and tell me if that much movement is normal. Nothing in the text you provided actually says how far the stud should move inside the sleeve.
 
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