Steering arm removal

burner31

burner31

Well-known member
Anyone have a tip on getting the steerings arm out?
They will move slightly up and down, so I know they are loose, but the threaded shaft will not budge.
I started with the pitman arm, the ball was worn, now I;m finding that all the tie rod balls are also out of round.
They all need to go and be replaced
 

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Yep< I should have known better, with this being America and all, I just grabbed a bigger hammer and out they came.
But sometimes I swing before I think and end up ruining something, so I don't mind asking and looking like a dork.
Now, can anyone tell me what's going on with these arms?
Those copper shims came out with the shaft...please don't tell me my spindles are bad.
 

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Take a close look at your spindles. I suspect the holes for thel arms are worn from being loose in the past. If they look ok, try another set of arms to see how they fit without shims. The shims are not needed if all the parts are correct and not worn.
 
Yes! That's a "Farmer Fix"! Either one or both of your parts are worn out. This comes from the parts sliding against each other. Or somebody used a bad part because he did have a good one. Give Steve B. at Bert's a call, He'll probably have some good used ones.
Terry
 
The same guy that welded on your door hinges strikes again yikes:eek:
it's pretty self explanatory what's going on, as mentioned the arms / spindles one or both are worn out. Suprised they didn't weld them in also.
 
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Mitch//pa said:
The same guy that welded on your door hinges strikes again yikes:eek:
it's pretty self explanatory what's going on, as mentioned the arms / spindles one or both are worn out. Suprised they didn't weld them in also
Click to expand...

Hey...you remembered the hinges fiasco.
Yes, this quick new caps in the tie rods thing is quickly snowballing out of control.
 
A and L will sell you the arms outright, with rebuilt balls. The core charge is $12, so it's almost a wash with shipping to send in your old ones. A suggestion is to order the single ball one from them first and then see how it fits. This way you can see if the shims were used just because the arms were worn, or if your spindle is worn. If just the arms were worn, I would think they would not be rebuildable, so they wouldn't take them as a core anyway. The cost of the single ball is $30, plus it would be the charge of the core for 12 and shipping. Just a suggestion, as I got mine recently from them and it was two day shipping.
 
A question remains...are the steering arms a tight fit in the spindle or a loose fit with the steering arm nut properly torqued with cotter pin enough.
 
How do these arms fit without the shims? If your spindle holes are round and not wallowed out and the new arms are tighter that may be a good thing.
 
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i get maybe 1 - 2 mil when I shake from bottom to top on the king pin
maybe less spindle moves freely, no binding
I'm grabbing from the brake drum so movement could be bearings
 
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Well, I going to order the arms and related parts and go for it, it it doesn't work out I'll just have to take it apart again.

Thank you all for putting up with this goofy old man...:)
 
I usually have to tap the arms out with a punch and hammer, so yes, they are fairly snug. With the nut tightened up good I'd bet you might be OK with just the new arms. It's worth a try. What you could do is put s small drop of paint on 2 sides of the nut where it touches the spindle. Let the paint dry and go for a drive. If the paint cracks, then you know you have movement.
 
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