Staying Cool in the Heat?

Brobrian

Senior Member
Been a few discussions on radiators and cooling lately. Today I made my commute in 103 degree heat. Truck ran cool(ish) in traffic and on the road. For me it's the result of a repro radiator, a fresh flush, and a fairly good running engine.

So, how you doing in the heat?
 
Pushing 90 here and runs as cool as ever. I've never had mine really get hot. I check the coolant now and again, put in a couple cups after a year. In a parade, running with the RPMs as low as she goes, there is a lot of heat in the hood, but never overheats....Yet.....
 
Supposed to be between 105 and 109 all week here. If both my A's run cool and leak-free I'm considering switching to that Evans waterless lifetime coolant. Saw it on an episode of Jay Leno's Garage on YouTube and was intrigued. The idea of a coolant that doesn't boil in an unpressurized system and thus won't mess up my hood, and will never corrode my engine seems too good to pass up.
 
Has anyone tried it in their Model A and what was the result? For those of us in the Northern tier of states where freeze protection is a concern, I understand (from the Evans web site) that their coolant in the cold thickens but never expands or gets solid. A very interesting concept.
 
One of our local club members bought a car out of Arizona that had this installed. It works fine as long as you have a good radiator. His radiator was bad and after we changed it out he went back with a 50/50 mix water and antifreeze. He didn't want to pay the extra money for the Evans.
 
102 in the shade today! While the radiator worked well (no motometer so no precise temp), I started vapor locking while in the stop & go through town. Just pulled down the throttle lever so the engine was well above idle the whole time and made it through ok. If it hadn't been for that thread on the Barn where a guy videoed the fuel turning to vapor in a clear gasl line I would not have understood to keep the flow of fuel up and the vacuum high. As it was I just got a few funny looks from folks who heard the engine revving at stops.
 
I recently did the following and are seeing some good results:
1. Ran distilled white vinegar for a week and flushed out the system - this worked wonders!
2. Ran 1 Gallon of Simple Green and distilled water for a week and flushed the system. The only thing you have to be careful of here is that if Simple Green shoots out of the motometer/radiator cap it stains your paint and is a pain to get off.
3. Exchanged to motometer for a plain old radiator cap and gasket
4. Bent the overflow tube back as suggested in these forums and the Service Bulletin
5. Filled with distilled water
Today it was in the 80's here and I ran her for quite awhile up some pretty steep hills and not a drop out of the cap or the overflow tube. The vinegar worked great and got a lot of rust and crap out but make sure as others have said that you drain it in a bucket because it will stain your concrete.
 
110 degrees sitting in traffic, with the a/c on running 175 when driving it was about 170 because I have a 170 thermostat in it. I have a modern core, 3 row pressurized radiator. It's well worth the money
 
Logan ;

What lb radiator cap do you use ? Also when you pressure up the radiator does it cause leaks else where ( head gasket ,water pump , etc. ).
Thanks
 
110 degrees sitting in traffic, with the a/c on running 175 when driving it was about 170 because I have a 170 thermostat in it. I have a modern core, 3 row pressurized radiator. It's well worth the money

Is this the radiator that Ken Davis showed me that someone in the dfw area was making up?
 
My coupe is sans pans, but the pu has them. As for cooling, the pu ( with the pans) runs hotter in the engine compartment than the coupe. But it would be crazy to conclude from that that pans cause the heat to build in the engine compartment. I'd have to run bith cars with and without under similar conditions to measure any effect.
 
108* the other day . went to car show ........... ran 160* all the time (160 thermostat)
 
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