Starving...

jwaldrich

jwaldrich

Senior Member
1926 Tudor with a rebuilt engine before I bought it, maybe 500 miles on new engine but probably much less (I know the car's history).

Had it for a couple of years. Always a strong runner.

Put a high compression head on. No change but ran it that way for a year. I was pretty surprised that there was no change but since I ground out the combustion chambers for piston clearance it kinda makes sense (block had been decked). Took it back off and again no change. Car is still a strong runner.

On a trip to town (20 miles round trip) it started running "weak" at higher RPM's. Just no giddyup.

Changed points, plugs, condenser, rotor, cap, plugs wires and coil. I'm pretty darned sure it isn't electrical which took me back to my original thought... it's starved for gas.

Changed to a known good Holley NH. NO CHANGE!

Suggestions?
 
PS: Checked and cleaned sediment bulb. No problem there. Also there is an inline fuel filter which is clean. Again no problem. Fuel runs fast and free through both.
 
Take the inline filter off and report back. The heat from the exhaust manifold could be doing something funky with the filter, if it's metal could be acting like a heat sink causing vapor lock.
 
Fuel filter has been there for years. Never an issue before. No where near the manifold but will do as suggested.
Same with intake manifold gaskets although I detected no leaks from the top (squirted WD40).
 
Low voltage to coil due to high resistance, poor/loose connections, frayed wires, bad ignition switch, poor ground cable?
 
Kelly mt said:
John, how's the advance in the distributor? Is it running retarded? PK
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Advancing the timing lever moves the distributor as it always has but I see where you are going. Retarded timing and starved for fuel could easily be mistaken for each other (by me anyway).
 
Jack Innes said:
Also check the intake manifold gaskets.
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[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]Replaced the rings and glands. Old ones were definitely bad and there was "some" improvement.

Will do a compression test next. Will first remove the fuel filter.

While under the car reinstalling the exhaust pipe I found a hand written note on the underside of the splash shield that said "Hello! New motor in 2002. Ron Kipling".

Ron put a new engine in it and then parked it. (he was a known local "rich guy" who had WAY too many toys). I bought it and put the few miles it has on it. Ron passed away a few years ago and the Tudor came from his estate.
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redmodelt said:
Take the inline filter off and report back. The heat from the exhaust manifold could be doing something funky with the filter, if it's metal could be acting like a heat sink causing vapor lock.
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Plastic filter. Got to get some fuel line.
 
Does it have adjustable valve lifters? Perhaps they have come loose & are holding some valves open a bit. There were some poor quality lifters around back about 2002. This would show up more once warmed up & expanded . Did you check the compression?
 
Jack Innes said:
Does it have adjustable valve lifters? Perhaps they have come loose & are holding some valves open a bit. There were some poor quality lifters around back about 2002. This would show up more once warmed up & expanded . Did you check the compression?
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Yes it does have adjustable lifters and compression check is next on my list. If that is "bad" might that point me at the valves? Sounds like a silly question but I remind myself there are no stupid questions.
 
John, Low compression can be from bad valves or rings - or both.
If you check compression & it is low, put some oil in the cylinders & check again. If the compression increases it indicates ring trouble, if no change it is likely a valve problem.
 
J, I really like to take compression cold on a T because of it's relatively low compression. I feel it gives a better idea of cold starting conditions. Comp can go up a bit when the eng. is warmed up. In your case, if your at the point where you think the valves might swell a bit when warm and lose what little clearence they have I'd do it twice. Cold and warmed up. If you lose a bit of compression when it's hot the valves could be standing open a crack. We're talkin' thousandths of an inch here. It'll start & run & sound great but will have no power.
 
CharlieB said:
J, I really like to take compression cold on a T because of it's relatively low compression. I feel it gives a better idea of cold starting conditions. Comp can go up a bit when the eng. is warmed up. In your case, if your at the point where you think the valves might swell a bit when warm and lose what little clearence they have I'd do it twice. Cold and warmed up. If you lose a bit of compression when it's hot the valves could be standing open a crack. We're talkin' thousandths of an inch here. It'll start & run & sound great but will have no power.
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That is precisely what it is doing now.
 
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