Just started my 1931 after sitting over the winter. It fired up right away,ran for a minute or so then died. Could not get it to restart. I may have flooded it trying to restart it so I let it sit overnight. Came out this morning tried again and it fired right up ran a little longer but then quit and I can't get it restarted. I think it's a fuel issue. I have a clear gas filter and can see gas flowing so I know there is gas. Perhaps carb/ float problem. Anyone have any ideas?
Starts then stops
- Thread starter Magoo2
- Start date
Tacoma Bob
Well-known member
Might try removing the gas cap and re-starting. Crud in the cap vents may have formed over the winter.
Chuck Sea/Tac
Well-known member
Do the fuel flow test by removing the fuel line from the carb, then turn the gas on for a half minute to see if you get full flow. If so then ,assuming it is gas, the float valve may be sticking or mostly plugged.
Bill G
Well-known member
There could be many possibilities, and I just went through this scenario with a friend's car. We started with checking for crap clogging the filters. Nope. We then swapped the carburetor with two others, and all three did the same thing, so it wasn't that. Then we tried the spark. It was good when we checked it, and then no spark at all when the car died. We thought it was the coil. Well, we went back and forth with coils and for a while it looked like the coil was the problem, but then with a swapped coil, it did the same thing.
It all turned out to be crappy crimped on repo flag connectors on the ends of his wires going from the terminal block to the ammeter and back and to the coil. All three of his wires had crappy crimped-on connectors that I could easily twirl around the wire with my fingers. One fell off while I had it in my hand.
We cleaned up and soldered the connectors and it ran like a champ.
Car had been sitting where it was moist. As far as I could tell, the connector(s) got some high resistance corrosion at the points of the lousy crimps. and would conduct for a minute or when the wires were wiggled from messing around with swapping out this and that, but would soon just not be able to handle the relatively small current flow of just running the engine.
My story, and I ani't changing it.
It all turned out to be crappy crimped on repo flag connectors on the ends of his wires going from the terminal block to the ammeter and back and to the coil. All three of his wires had crappy crimped-on connectors that I could easily twirl around the wire with my fingers. One fell off while I had it in my hand.
We cleaned up and soldered the connectors and it ran like a champ.
Car had been sitting where it was moist. As far as I could tell, the connector(s) got some high resistance corrosion at the points of the lousy crimps. and would conduct for a minute or when the wires were wiggled from messing around with swapping out this and that, but would soon just not be able to handle the relatively small current flow of just running the engine.
My story, and I ani't changing it.
You might have an intake manifold issue. I recently had a similar problem where my motor would start up fine and in 5 to 10 seconds, run a little rough and then shut off. If you motor is making lots of noise when it does run, check your manifold gaskets, it should cover all 4 exhaust port and the 2 intake ports from the carburetor. A last issue could be related to the fuel line clogging up. Check the screen filter in the intake to the right side of the carb. Remove any sediment and replace.
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
Did rodents plug up the exhaust over winter?
1928Mik
Senior Member
After winter storage my car fired right up. Topped it off with some fresh gas and then it ran for a minute, then stalled. Wouldn't restart, just cranked over. I took carb off and split it, sprayed some carb cleaner thruout, put it back together and it fired up again with no issue.......Go figure...
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
Today's crap gas can leave lots of residue, and the crap gas evaporates very quickly. On small engines especially, it's important to run them dry for long term storage.
alexiskai
Well-known member
What's the verdict on the ethanol-free stuff? I put 89 non-ethanol in my Model A and all my small engines, and I live in the south so I drive the A during the winter (but not my small engines). Do I need to take any special measures?
Patrick L.
Well-known member
I run non-ethanal in small engines, it stores much longer. I run them dry for the off-season if able.
I run anything in the 'A' including the old stale fuel [ 2 cycle too], it doesn't care. It likes the 2 cycle stuff. I run the 'A' dry for the off-season.
I run anything in the 'A' including the old stale fuel [ 2 cycle too], it doesn't care. It likes the 2 cycle stuff. I run the 'A' dry for the off-season.
Patrick L.
Well-known member
Regarding the OP, maybe some varnish has built up in the carburetor especially the needle/seat. I agree with checking for fuel flow. A little 'love tap' may help with a sticky needle, but, these carburetors come apart easily.
Just wanted to thank everyone for their advice. It won't start at all now. Fresh gas,removed carb bowl and cleaned carb with carb cleaner, fuel filter clean, ran it dry last year, now I'm thinking electrical because I can crank it with the key in any position or removed altogether.
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
The key only turns on and off the ignition on standard wiring. Every thing else is live with or with out the key in, or key turned off or on. Starter/Lights/electric wiper/etc. are always live.
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
Disconnect one of the wires at the spark plug, place the free end of the lead it about 1/4 inch from the plug, ignition on, crank the motor and you should see a nice blue spark at the gap.
