starts but won't run

wingski

wingski

Senior Member
OK, I need help. I have done everything I can think of get my A running. However, it starts immediately but won’t keep running without missing and back-firing. I’ll list the things I’ve done and maybe you can tell me where I went wrong.

1-New fresh gas is in the tank. Filled tank to 1/2 full.
2-Installed new headgasket, used Indian Chief shellac, and torqued to 55 ft. Lbs in three stages and then torqued in reverse order.
3-Ran compression check- #1 56 psi #2 53 psi #3 55 psi and #4 60 psi.
4-Removed timing gear cover and the notch in the crank gear lined up with the dimple in the cam gear.
5-Made sure the cam plunger and spring were good. They were new.
6-Drilled out dimple enough so timing pin fits securely when in hole and bolted cover back on.
7-Set distributor so rotor was pointed at #1, set the point to .020 and spark plugs to .035, and backed up the distributor cam so the points just closed while the timing hole in the cam gear was lined up with the timing pin.
8- Turned timing pin around and turned crank back from timing mark and turned crank forward. Points sparked when rotor was pointed at #1.
9-Made sure gas was getting to the carb
10-Checked plug wires for continuity. They are good.
11-Tightened all intake, exhaust, and carb mounts. No air leaks.
12-Made sure gas cap was venting correctly. It is.
13-Turned key on, retarded spark, pulled throttle lever down two clicks, opened rich/lean knob 1/2 turn, pulled out choke, and pushed starter.
14-Engine started immediately, but never smoothed out when I pushed the choke in. I pulled the choke back when the engine tried to stall, but all it did was back-fire and finally stalled when I pushed the choke in.
15- I tried starting it three different times allowing 15-20 minutes between attempts. The results were the same or close to the same each time.

I don’t mind asking for advice, but I really hate to ask for help because I’m soo stuborn. However, I’m at wits end with this thing.

Mike
 
Maybe a manifold air leak or sticky valves. I believe the auto trans fluid or mmo in the oil can relieve sticky valves, a oil flush did the trick for mine.
 
Try a different condenser. You have a higher probability of a new one being bad than a good one going bad. Make sure of the timing. The coil fires when the points open. Use a light and go by the book.
 
No mention of Carburetor in your check list? Assuming timing is correct or close... they will run even if off 10 degrees retarded. When was the carb gone through? Keep digging you will find the it.
 
I suspect a fuel problem. Make certain neither end of your fuel line is pushed too far in, which would restrict gas flow. Also make sure your sediment bowl is not full or clogged.
 
When it runs better with the choke pulled out (Closed) this suggests a lack of fuel. As mentioned above, try starting with the GAV opened more, at least a full turn or slightlt more.
 
Craggles said:
Maybe a manifold air leak or sticky valves. I believe the auto trans fluid or mmo in the oil can relieve sticky valves, a oil flush did the trick for mine.
Click to expand...

I have a MMO jar with the oil in it mounted on the firewall, but I don't know how to use it. I don't want to use that Marvel stuff until I figure out how much to open the valve on the dispenser. I would think that my compression values would show that the valves are working correctly, but who knows?
 
700rpm said:
I suspect a fuel problem. Make certain neither end of your fuel line is pushed too far in, which would restrict gas flow. Also make sure your sediment bowl is not full or clogged.
Click to expand...

Ray, I’ve been told by several different members that the fuel line ( in my case, fuel lines) could be pushed in too far, but I don’t see how. I’ve attached a photo of the front carb because I’ve got the back carb diconnected from the fuel line with the choke wired all the way closed. I’m hoping that if it is a carb problem I can get it running on the one and work from there.

I appreciate your advice and wish I didn’t live so far away from someone who really knows A’s.

Thanks again,
Mike
 

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wingski said:
Ray, I’ve been told by several different members that the fuel line ( in my case, fuel lines) could be pushed in too far, but I don’t see how. I’ve attached a photo of the front carb because I’ve got the back carb diconnected from the fuel line with the choke wired all the way closed. I’m hoping that if it is a carb problem I can get it running on the one and work from there.

I appreciate your advice and wish I didn’t live so far away from someone who really knows A’s.

Thanks again,
Mike
Click to expand...

are you saying you have two carbs? If so it is another ball game.
 
I haven't read all of your posts on this matter, but one thing caught my eye on your timing. You mentioned turning the points cam to where the points just closed. It should be to where the points just start to open with the rotor pointing to #1. This is just an initial setting. Actual timing is set by the spark lever on the steering column.
Is this a rebuild that has not run yet, or are you reviving an engine that has sat for awhile? If it was running before, leave the timing alone. That does not change from just sitting.
If you're trying to get it running on just one carb, remove the other one and make a block-off plate to cover the intake port. Just make a gasket or shim without the center opening and put the carb back on. Otherwise the engine can suck air around the throttle shaft and plate, through the float bowl, etc. and make the back cylinders lean.
Your carb fitting does not appear to have a line going into the carb so no problem there.
 
The car came with the dual Tillotsons, and the previous owner never got it running for more than a minute or so. I have the original Zenith and manifold and both are in good shape, but I’d like to get this thing running with the Tillotsons to see if they actually add 10 hp. If you really feel that this is a carb problem, I can put the old Zenith back on. Those Tillotsons look really good, but are worthless if they won’t give me a smooth running engine.

Mike
 
wingski said:
The car came with the dual Tillotsons, and the previous owner never got it running for more than a minute or so. I have the original Zenith and manifold and both are in good shape, but I’d like to get this thing running with the Tillotsons to see if they actually add 10 hp. If you really feel that this is a carb problem, I can put the old Zenith back on. Those Tillotsons look really good, but are worthless if they won’t give me a smooth running engine.

Mike
Click to expand...

Maybe that would be a good starting point just to see if the problem can be isolated to the fuel/carburetor system.
 
Besides, if you don't have the original to compare the dual carb to, how will you actually know the difference?
 
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