Starting problem?

glmke

glmke

Junior Member
I have a 1950 ford with a 239 flathead, the problem i have is that I can start the car fine initialy and after some driving or say i have to get gas the car will not start and the battery acts like its dead. Had the same problem in my gerage after having to start car several times in a row while doing some maintenance. I checked the battery which is new and it had plenty of power.I also intalled new battery cables. the car is a + ground 6 volt system with a generator.Battery cables were made at a battery store using welding lead. If the car sits for awile then it will start,just seems to have trouble when turned off for a short period.
 
I had that trouble with my '49 and after replace all the cables with 1/0 welding cable the problem was gone... I had the starter checked first and that wasn't the trouble, while it was off I cleaned the contact area to get a good ground. Don't forget the long cable that goes to the starter. Might be something else with yours.....??
 
JT FORD said:
I had that trouble with my '49 and after replace all the cables with 1/0 welding cable the problem was gone... I had the starter checked first and that wasn't the trouble, while it was off I cleaned the contact area to get a good ground. Don't forget the long cable that goes to the starter. Might be something else with yours.....??
Click to expand...

did you use 1/0 cable for the long one also
 
Tonight I fixed a car with the same problem you describe, new battery, cables have been tried, still same problem, it turned out to be nuts, the same rusty nuts had been reused.

The path the electric takes from the wire to the inside of the starter is through the nuts, washers, the treminal touches the side of the nut and conducts it to the threads---and on to the threads of the stud ---so if the threads , the side of the nut, or the washer are corroded, rusty you have the potential to have a poor, or bad connections.
 
I know this has been said many times but here it is one more time. Take the ground cable off at the engine block and take 80 grit sandpaper and clean the surface until it is bright. Next clean the ends of all the cables and even put new bolts and nuts on the connections. This means on the solenoid as well as where it connects at the starter. Any resistance will cause a voltage drop. Once everything is clean and bright it will turn over as if you were using a 12 volt battery.
 
You could also try a Jumper from your modern , With key of ,one to starter one to earth ,if its very lively then you know the problem is between there and the battery .
 
If you have one of those battery disconnects with the green or black knob they don't work good on 6 volts. I had problems with 3 of them. Gives the same results you are getting with 1/0 cables, the drop is in the contact area of the disconnect switch. All cables from the battery to ground, solenoid or starter foot switch and to the starter must be large cables. ALL the ones I have seen from parts suppliers are small copper cable with larger insulation that makes them look larger. G.M.
 
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