Starting Problem

Patrick, Ive disconnected the fuel line from the carb and fuel bowl and blown the line out with air. Ive also blown air back through the fuel bowl to the tank with the cap off and can feel air coming through. As for carb rebuild I mean that I only cleaned the carb body and then replaced gaskets and interal needles and jets. I didnt clean passageways. I got the carb parts from Sacramento Vintage Ford.

Purdy, Ive checcked for vacume leaks by spraying around the carb to intake connection, intake to engine connection and even on the hole that I plugged that was for windshield wiper vacuum, with starter fluid. No leaks. When you say original "Numbered" jets what do you mean? I still have them and will put them back in though. I don't know how to clean the passages but I'm sure I can if told how. As for the GAV, I have to open it more than 2 full turns or more to keep the engine on and idling smooth.

Bill, I will try that today and see what happens.

Thank you all for so much input. Its great to learn new things.

Jesse
 
Mercman53 said:
Patrick, Ive disconnected the fuel line from the carb and fuel bowl and blown the line out with air. Ive also blown air back through the fuel bowl to the tank with the cap off and can feel air coming through. As for carb rebuild I mean that I only cleaned the carb body and then replaced gaskets and interal needles and jets. I didnt clean passageways. I got the carb parts from Sacramento Vintage Ford.

Purdy, Ive checcked for vacume leaks by spraying around the carb to intake connection, intake to engine connection and even on the hole that I plugged that was for windshield wiper vacuum, with starter fluid. No leaks. When you say original "Numbered" jets what do you mean? I still have them and will put them back in though. I don't know how to clean the passages but I'm sure I can if told how. As for the GAV, I have to open it more than 2 full turns or more to keep the engine on and idling smooth.

Bill, I will try that today and see what happens.

Thank you all for so much input. Its great to learn new things.

Jesse
Click to expand...

A quick easy way to clean the carb passageways is with a good carburetor spray cleaner [Deep Creep] and compressed air. Spray air through all the passages followed by good doses of the cleaner [ stick the nozzle/straw in the passages] followed again with air. Don't stop until they are all clean. If you can't trace/feel the passageways with the cleaner or air [ you should see the cleaner go completely thru the circuit], just blow some smoke thru them.
There have been times when I've had to poke tag wires or tip cleaners into all these mysterious holes, but, thats been kinda rare. I try to avoid that. But, if you have too, just be careful to not make anything bigger than when you started.
Blowing back thru the fuel delivery system really doesn't tell me too much. Just remove the fuel line from the carburetor [ make sure this line doesn't go too far into the carburetor] and see if it will fill at least a gallon jug with a good steady uninterrupted stream.
 
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Jesse, sorry for taking so long getting back. The original jets are numbered at the base where the socket would fit for removal. The main , cap and compensator jets can be numbered #19,20 or 21. the larger the number, the larger the nozzle of the jet will be. I really prefer the larger size. The idle jet will always be # 11 . The length of the main jet should be 1.48" from where the base of the jet meets the gasket to the tip. if the jet is shorter or too many gaskets are used this will cause a drip at the throat of the carb because the jet will be below the level of the gas in the float bowl of the carb. the length of the cap jet is 1.115 from the top of the base nut to the tip. nozzle size of the main, cap and compensator jet will be roughly from .035 to .037 depending on the numbers on the jets. The idle jet nozzle should be .021 . All of the jets will use a fiber washer except the idle jet. I use carburetor cleaner in a spray can plus compressed air to clean the passages in the housings of the carb after probing them with a 1/16th gas welding rod. The idle passage above the throttle butterfly in the upper housing can be the most difficult to un stop. I use the smallest size torch tip cleaner to probe this passage. if the idle passage is blocked the idle circuit just won't work. I usually don't bother with measurements and figure when the jets are numbered they are original and good to use. Repro jet sizes can be all over the place. Another big cause of running lean is if the float is incorrectly set , the level of the gas in the float bowl will be too low and the engine will be starving for fuel.
 
OK so heres the update.
Patrick, I did clean the passages as you described and also allowed the fuel to flow free into a gallon jug. Great flow to fill the jug and all passages are clean.

Purdy, There were no numbered jets so I suspect this carb has been rebuilt before. I re adjusted and re adjusted and then readjusted the float again to the 5/8inch that is recommended and even fluctuated a tad bit either way after the problem persisted. But the huge problem now is that gas comes pouring out of the carb when I try to start her up and there fore floods her. So I checked and even switched out the float valve but still the fuel comes pouring like rain out of the carb.I dried the carb out a few times after and I noticed that the fuel seems to be flowing out of the main jet and not the cap. So thats when I tried to exchange float valves but that was a no go. So bottom line, whatever I did to this carb made it worse. Im out of ideas and am ready to just try a new carb. What are your all's thoughts.

Jesse
 
Thanks bob. I never thought about what marco said about the float. I'll take look at that tomorrow. Ok maybe there is hope afterall.
Jesse
 
Ok Gents. Sorry for the time away. But Im back at it again and this is the issue now. The car starts and idles great. But is backfires of both the carb and tailpipe when I try to give it gas(press the gas pedal). Ive tried adjusting and re adjusting the GAV, Ive cleaned the plugs, which were idicative of running rich, put in new points and condenser, wires, checked and rechecked timing and point gap. All looks good. What the heck. I do have an oil leak out of the pinhole on the bottom of the bellhousing. For that Ive pulled the pan and checked and cleaned the oil passages so I guess it has to be the rear main? Im trying to keep it cool here but this is really frustrating.
HELP...
 
It sure sounds carb related, and lean to me, but doing some electrical checks can help to eliminate that. Black plugs could be wet fouled and miss under accelleration. Start by holding the coil wire 1/4" from a head nut while you crank the engine with the key on. You should see a hot blue snappy spark. Do you have a clean set of plugs to try? If not them spray some carb cleaner on these and heat them up with a propane torch to burn off the black. I'd heat them until the electrodes are red hot.

Now, try the engine again and if it starts to backfire, pull the choke half way to see if that helps.
Do you have a known good carb to swap?
 
As it relates to the leak ,make sure the gas line where it enters the carb extends NO MORE than one eight inch past the ferrel .
 
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