Starting Problem

GREAT NEWS. I Plugged the hole on the side of the Intake Manifold as everyone said and tried to start the car again and this time it DID START and stay on. YIPPEE. After readjusting the GAV and needle air valve along with finding out that the spark advance linkage was not allowing full movement like I thought it was, the car sounds great. This was the first time it has been started since July 4th last year. But now I see oil dripping from the rear of the engine through what looks like a tell tale hole under the bellhousing. I also have to repack the packing gland on the water pump. BUT SHES ALIVE....THANK YOU SO MUCH TO EVERYONE. Now onto the oil leak. Ideas or thought about how to repair it....

Jesse
 
The oil leak might be a simple fix, a kind of tough fix, or a really tough fix. Oil dripping out that bellhousing hole indicates oil is getting past the rear main slinger, and rather than returning to the oil pan, it's leaking out.

The simple fix could be that you have too much oil in the pan, or that that your crankcase isn't vented well enough. Preasure in the crankcase will cause the oil to squirt past the slinger. Check your oil filler cap to make sure that the vents underneath are not blocked. And check that the oil isn't above the Full mark on the dipstick.

The kind of tough fix is that the tube in the rear main cap that carries the oil back to the oilpan is clogged. This involves dropping the pan and removing the rear main cap to unclog the tube.

The really tough fix is that you have way too much clearance in the rear main. Too much clearance means too much oil in there- more than can be slung off and drain back. It can also be due to the thrust bearing on the face of the rear main being worn so that there's too much fore and aft motion of the crank, which leads to "pumping" the oil past the main and out the bellhousing. If you're lucky, you might be able to reduce the clearance by removing some shims from the bearing cap. If you're not, it means having the engine rebuilt.
 
Great to hear the car's up and running again!
Is the leaking fluid engine oil or transmission gear oil and how bad is it leaking?
 
check to see if the crankcase filler cap is venting, or SQUASHED DOWN TIGHT CLOSING OFF THE FILLER TUBE. IF YOU ARE GENERATING BACKPRESSURE FROM THIS IN THE CRANKCASE YOU WILL PUSH OIL OUT THE REAR SEAL OR THE CAM, OR BOTH.
Bobby
 
Ok. I pulled the pan and checked to see if there was a clog. I coulda been staring at the space shuttle engine for all I know but I did find the tube and it wasnt clogged. I blew air through it for good measure, geez I sure hope I didnt mess anything up doin it, but being the novice that I am I decided that it wouldnt be a good idea for me to undo the rear main cap so I left it alone. So now after fighting with the pan and the pump I finally got it back together and now am wondering if there is any method to re tightening the oil pan bolts such as sequence or torque? oh and there was oil on the back of the flywheel. I know this cuz I removed the inspection plate and felt and cleaned it.
 
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Mercman53 said:
Ok. I pulled the pan and checked to see if there was a clog. I coulda been staring at the space shuttle engine for all I know but I did find the tube and it wasnt clogged. I blew air through it for good measure, geez I sure hope I didnt mess anything up doin it, but being the novice that I am I decided that it wouldnt be a good idea for me to undo the rear main cap so I left it alone. So now after fighting with the pan and the pump I finally got it back together and now am wondering if there is any method to re tightening the oil pan bolts such as sequence or torque? oh and there was oil on the back of the flywheel. I know this cuz I removed the inspection plate and felt and cleaned it.
Click to expand...

There's no sequence to the pan bolts. Just don't overtighten them. They're easy to break. Snug is good, and recheck them after few miles. Good decision on not pulling the rear main cap. Blowing out the pipe won't hurt anything. Some pipes are just threaded in and you can take them out for inspection. If you do that, use some loctite when you put it back in. Some are soldered in too. Don't force anything. Was the oil on the flywheel there before you blew out the rear main pipe, or as a result of that?
 
Hope you took the opportunity while the pan was down to take out the dipper tray and clean out the gunk from the bottom of the pan.
 
Thanks for the replies. 700RPM, Yes the oil was there before I blew out the rear main pipe. Will, yes I did take the dipper tray out and clean the pan. The oil was black and thick with a little bit of gunk but its all clean now. What kind of oil do I need for my engine. This is my first oil change since Ive had the car. Thanks again.

Jesse.
 
Ford recommended 20 weight for winter and 40 weight for summer . I've never been able to find 20w40 . I use Walmart brand 20w50 in all of mine. I usually buy it in five quart jugs at a good price. It is my understanding that Walmart brand is actually Mobil oil. I figure that 20 weight is good for cold starts and 50 weight is good for a warm 80 year old engine. This oil is high detergent and works good for me.
 
Ok Gents, Great news, oil leak stopped or at least slowed to a very very light drip, maybe one drip after I shut off the engine. OK Next problem, car idles great but when I give her a little gas she begins to backfire out of the carb. Ive tried to adjust the Gav and have to open it at least 2 turns to get her to put up with any acceleration at all and even then its very slight before she begins to fight back. Ive also checked and rechecked the gap on both plugs and points, Ive even replaced the condenser. Ive got her on jack stands so this is all being done in my garage. Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks
Jesse
 
Where is the idle mixture set ? [ should be about 1-1.5 turns] Where is the spark lever set when trying to drive ? [ should be about 9:00]
Have you checked the fuel delivery ? Problem could be almost anything from the fuel cap to the carburetor internals.
 
Well I tried to adjust the Idle mixture but still a no go. Idles Fine but when I try to give her the slightest amount of gas she begins to cough sputter and backfire....
 
I also found out that this car was involved with a accidental engine fire baused by an improper gasket in the fuel bowl. Could the carburetor have been distorted or just plain melted with regards to its innards? I did rebuild it with a kit from snyders and replaced all the needle and jets as well as gaskets. Again the car starts fine and idles fine but when I push the accelerator pedal slightly the car backfires out of the carb and if I persist with giving it more gas it backfires out the tail pipe as well.
Thanks,
Jesse
 
Have you checked the fuel delivery? You never answered that question. Make sure you have a good supply to the carburetor, and, for a long period of time. The inside of the carburetor could also be a problem. What do you mean by 'rebuild' ? That has a different meaning to many. If you just replaced parts without a really good circuit/passageway cleaning, that may not account for much.
 
I always use the original numbered jets. I would try putting the old jets back in, if they are numbered they are original. I am of the opinion that jets don't wear out and don't need replacement.. You are undoubtedly running too lean. It could be caused by the replacement jets, partly blocked passages or a vacume leak. It could be a fuel delivery problem as mentioned by pat. You may be running the GAV closed too much. It could be caused by a loose knob on the choke rod or a faulty adjusting needle driver. Some needle drivers are pressed and others are pinned. Make sure that the choke rod is actually turning the gav adjusting needle in the carb. On cold weather starts with the model A Zenith carb I open the gav a full turn and let it run untill it begins to lope and then close it down to 1/4 turn.
 
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