starting issues with spare engine on stand

rer_239

rer_239

Senior Member
i've got a spare engine on a stand that started and ran a couple of weeks ago. now it doesn't turn over. i know the engine is not stuck cause i can turn it with a socket on the front pulley nut. charged the battery, but still doesn't turn over. tried a search for using a 12 volt battery with a 6 volt coil and couldn't find how to convert. looked on ebay and there is a conversion part available but it needs a resistor also. i know that there may be ring gear issues by using 12 volts to start, but how do i convert just the starter?
 
If you have power at the starter switch terminal there is probably something wrong in the switch, doesn't matter if the ignition switch is on or off. Converting to 12 volts won't help until the real problem is solved.

John






















converting to 12

John
 
Last edited:
rer_239 said:
i've got a spare engine on a stand that started and ran a couple of weeks ago. now it doesn't turn over. i know the engine is not stuck cause i can turn it with a socket on the front pulley nut. charged the battery, but still doesn't turn over. tried a search for using a 12 volt battery with a 6 volt coil and couldn't find how to convert. looked on ebay and there is a conversion part available but it needs a resistor also. i know that there may be ring gear issues by using 12 volts to start, but how do i convert just the starter?
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My first instinct is you have a poor ground. Make sure you have no corrosion at the connections. Generally speaking, you will break a Bendix bolt with the sudden impact that the 12v gives and not a ring gear.




As for starting a test engine with a 12v battery, it likely will not be a problem even with the 6v starter and electrical system (coil, condenser, etc.) because of the limited time you will be operating it.
 
If the initial timing is set TOO advanced it will cause the starter to drag and kick back similiar to the sound when the battery is low or the starter is dragging . Check your points gap and initial timing . I set mine with the trailing edge of the rotor tip pointing at the number one contact in the distributor cap with no clockwise backlash after the distributor cam screw is tightened .
 
Put a voltmeter on the starter power terminal and see if power stays on when pushing the starter engage. If it does, then check starter switch or starter itself. If voltage drops when trying to engage starter, keep moving back towards the battery to see where you're dropping the power. Same for ground side.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
If the initial timing is set TOO advanced it will cause the starter to drag and kick back similiar to the sound when the battery is low or the starter is dragging . Check your points gap and initial timing . I set mine with the trailing edge of the rotor tip pointing at the number one contact in the distributor cap with no clockwise backlash after the distributor cam screw is tightened .
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To test if initial timing is too advanced you can hit the starter button with the switch turned off , If the starter turns as normal and doesn't kick or drag , then check the timing . I got this good tip from Rain maker Ron . It can't hurt to check before taking things apart .
 
If you think it is timing or others issues like that remover the plugs and try to turn over by jumpering only the starter. reduced trouble down to started
 
Original problem was it wouldn't turn over.
Engine is free as he can turn over by hand.
This is either battery, ground connection, starter, starter switch, or cable from neg terminal to starter switch.
Should be pretty easy to isolate why starter isn't turning.
We are only confusing the issue by discussions about timing, conversions to 12v etc.
Need to solve the original problem.
 
Make sure the spark advance lever is retarding all the way. Your steering column, when loosened is capable of rotating around to properly position the spark advance and throttle lever. It must "Bottom out" for both. Loosen the clamp and rotate it to the left a little.
Terry
 
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