starting help needed

[1930artdeco]

Ok, trying to get the wagon started and it won't even catch to cough. So here is the back story.

Got her back from the shop running, replaced intake gaskets to fix a vacuum leak. Sealed them up per the H.R. Reverand with a sealant (can't remember which one). Reinstalled everything and went to fire her up and nothing. BUT, if I kept the key in the start mode she would fire off. I also noticed the ballast resister would glow (that is bad I think). So replaced that and I noticed that the wire that goes from the solenoid to the regulator (batt side) was just laying there-I just need to hook it back up. That is part of the charging system I believe.

Tried again and nothing, so I ordered a NOS ignition switch thinking that is the problem-nope. Still won't catch, I did not try to keep the key in the start position. So the next thing is the starter solenoid. Any other suggestions? Maybe a dead capacitor? I have not checked 12v anywhere yet.

Mike

 

[miker98038]

I’m not quite understanding. The part about keeping the key in the “start” (or cranking?) it runs. When you turn the key from “run” to start, I think the power to the coil is disconnected. The second little wire from the solenoid goes to the coil (bypassing the resistor) giving the full 12 volts for starting. When you release it, the resistors sees power again, 12v in, 6-8 out to the coil. It’s to protect the points from the arc of the higher voltage. But if the resistor is red hot, it got to be getting power and shorted to ground. That’s not normal.

 

[Flathead Fever]

You need to get a voltmeter and check the voltage. You said it would run in the start position but then die in the run position. Normally that would be a ballast resistor or starter switch that has gone bad, but you have replaced the ballast resistor. I worked for 30-years as a fleet mechanic. That is on vehicles that nobody has messed with since they were new so I could assume it was either the starter switch or ballast resistor. I have feeling that you have the wiring screwed up. I would check the primary wire at the coil with the key on. I would disconnect the wire from coil because if the points are closed you won't read any voltage. The points need to be open, or the primary wire disconnected from the coil. Just remove the wire from the coil and check it with the key on. If there is no voltage (should be with the key on) follow the wire back to the ignition switch continually checking for voltage. It's either wired wrong or the ignition switch is bad.

 

[1930artdeco]

Ok, I thought that I put the wires back on the coil the way I took them off. I made mental notes for that specifically. But this weekend I will check voltage. I have already switched out the resistor and ign switch. Thank you for the help. The primary wire is the + wire correct on a 57? Sorry I am not a sparky so plain english for me is best.

Mike

 

[dmsfrr]

. . . But if the resistor is red hot, it got to be getting power and shorted to ground. That’s not normal.

1930artdeco, the wire from the ballast resistor to the +/Ign terminal on the coil may be crushed under the ballast resistor or ignition coil mounting bracket???

Here's an ignition wiring diagram...
.

 

[paul2748]

sounds like it is wired wrong. . Do you have a factory electrical manual to check the wires? Mental notes are not always a good way to do it. Take a Picture or write down how things are. are the best.


Putting tags on wire ends always works for me.

 

[1930artdeco]

I will double check the wiring but I swear I rewired it the same way it came apart. But, that being said, it would not be the first time I screwed up putting something back together.

 

[dmsfrr]

If you had the right / passenger side valve cover off the small black wire from the minus/dist terminal on the ignition coil may be pinched between the valve cover and head.

 

[miker98038]

Properly connected the ballast resistor see’s the resistance of the coil before going to ground thru the points. It’s intermittent when running. But if it’s getting red hot, it’s likely going to ground directly. How I’m not sure, but dmsfrr is on the likely tack with a pinched wire.

 

[1930artdeco]

Update: it was the usa made starter solenoid. I replaced it with a newer Napa switch and she fired up! Runs very rough in choke mode-still need to sort that out. But when she warms up oh boys does she smooth out purr like a kitten!!!!!!!!! I will ad pics of the exhaust as I have never seen exhaust spittle like this before, it is water, carbon and what looks like oil?


Thank you all for ideas.


Mike

 

[1930artdeco]

Here are the pics. I checked the oil and it was absolutely black the first time I checked then it cleared up.

 

[miker98038]

Glad to hear you found it and things are good. I suspect once you get the car warmed up, or better yet a 10 mile trip at highway speeds, you’ll blow the old deposits out of the exhaust system. The F code in my roadster (no choke horn, milled off) did that in cold damp weather. Which you’ve got right now. Some of that’s probably from running rich on some cylinders before you got the vacuum leaks fixed

Still running the road draft tube or have enough got a PCV? Given the weather difference between here and the Bay Area, that’s more important here, especially in the winter.

 

[1930artdeco]

Running a pcv valve into the back of the manifold. The soot type exhaust did clear up after awhile. I can’t wait to drive her!!!