Starting flatheads

I use a universal ignition switch to power my electric pump with the key for it on my key ring therefore the electric pump can not be left on by accident.
. At my age I need all the memory help I can get.
Gary.
 
My Dad told me to put your mouth on the gas tank filler and blow into the gas tank.I have a electric fuel pump now,don't like the taste of this new gas.
 
G.M. said:
I don't have an electric pump on any of the 6 or more old Fords I drive. I use Bob Shewmans, gadgiteer@aol.com flex hose with a check valve built in the pump fitting. This holds the fuel in the pump. With this hose andton 6 volts with 2/0 cables it starts on the first turn of the engine just about every time. On others that sit for 8 months I remove the air cleaner give it a couple shots of starter fluid as it is cranking and it starts right up if it starts to die give a couple short shots and that's it. G.M.
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Does anyone have Bob Shewmans phone number? I tried emailing him but no reply. I am interested in his fuel hose with the check valve in it as noted by G.M.
 
Don Bob's phone number is 1-610-933-6637. I just got a set of 180 stats and a vented insulated carb 1/2" base spacer from him in the mail today. I want to get them on the 39 P/U tomorrow and check the temperatures The intake below the carb yesterday was close to 200 and the base of the carb 153. The gas bowl area of the carb about 115 which was cooled by the gas and the venturi effect of the carb. I want to check the carb after the insulated base spacer then reduce the heat riser holes to 1/4" and check the temps again. There is no heat build up in the rear of the engine area in this P/U due to the six bladed fan blowing air right back past the Carb. on the fuel pump. The vented side panels also release the hot air so it's not trapped back there like the 39 convertible. G.M.
 
my 8ba is still starting pretty quick with the choke pulled almost fully closed after sitting for a week or more.
rich
 
Burns F-1, pre-electric fuel pump days I found blowing in the fuel tank good for filling the glass fuel filter bowl after cleaning it but could never manage enough puff to fill the carb. Our petrol doesn't taste that nice either ...
 
G.M. said:
Don Bob's phone number is 1-610-933-6637. I just got a set of 180 stats and a vented insulated carb 1/2" base spacer from him in the mail today. I want to get them on the 39 P/U tomorrow and check the temperatures The intake below the carb yesterday was close to 200 and the base of the carb 153. The gas bowl area of the carb about 115 which was cooled by the gas and the venturi effect of the carb. I want to check the carb after the insulated base spacer then reduce the heat riser holes to 1/4" and check the temps again. There is no heat build up in the rear of the engine area in this P/U due to the six bladed fan blowing air right back past the Carb. on the fuel pump. The vented side panels also release the hot air so it's not trapped back there like the 39 convertible. G.M.
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Thanks G.M. I'll call him when I get a chance. Does his fuel hose look like the original? What's he getting for them?
 
Bruno said:
I sometimes don't start my '52 F1 for a couple of days or more - know it must lose its "prime" on gas to carb - seems to take a good bit of cranking and pumping the gas pedal to get it going. Is there a better way to start it after a few days of sitting? Prime the carb somehow?? Once it has run for a bit and has reached good operating temp, it starts well. Thanks!
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put a leather jacket or something over the carb to seal it, have someone hold it down. then crank the engine. once it sounds like its starting to fire up, remove the jacket or seal, then it should start up. this is what i do with mine. :D good luck with it! ;)
 
Mr 42 said:
Had a problem with a modern fuel line that had "cloth" around it but the rubber was cracked letting air in but not fuel out= hard started after a week.

Check all connections for airleaks.

Recently had a 59AB that was hardstarted after a day or so (sometimes a couple of hours) , after replacing the fuelpump a couple of times, we found out the the fuelpump inlet connection was a botch job letting in small amounts of air allowing the fuel drain back to reach the same level as in the fueltank, in a short time,

when restarted it had a BIG problem sucking up the fuel
and it was the connection of the fuel line the was screwed up (not Original).

Works great now.

New fuel is hard on rubber so double check it.
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I had a repro fuel line from Macs that leaked where the fittings were crimped onto the hose, drove me nuts until I found it. Worked fine for a year or so.

A simple alternative to an electric pump is a primer bulb for outboard boat motors. Easy to find at hardware stores etc, flows plenty for a flathead. Just plumb it before the fuel pump, give it a few squeezes until you feel resistance or hear gas enter the carb and you are ready to start.
 
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