I sometimes don't start my '52 F1 for a couple of days or more - know it must lose its "prime" on gas to carb - seems to take a good bit of cranking and pumping the gas pedal to get it going. Is there a better way to start it after a few days of sitting? Prime the carb somehow?? Once it has run for a bit and has reached good operating temp, it starts well. Thanks!
Starting flatheads
- Thread starter Bruno
- Start date
Lawson Cox
Well-known member
I installed an electric fuel pump back near the tank. If my truck sits for several days I hit the button for the electric pump, let it hit a few licks then stop. I then pull out the choke about 1/2 to 3/4 inch, hit the gas pedal once to get a squirt into the carb, then hit the starter. It usually starts right up. It will start on the first lick almost every time. Gradually push the choke back in as she warms up.
Walt Dupont--Me.
Well-known member
I drive my 40 in the storage barn every fall. 3-4 days ago I got spring feaver. Went up to the barn, removed the sheets on the car, hooked the cable up on the batt, turned the key on, the electric pump filled the 4 barbs, pumped it a couple of times, pulled the ckoke, vroooom, it didn't turn over one rev and fired right up. That little electric pump, back by the tank has been on there 35yr's, fuel pressure set at 3-1/2#. Walt
I don't have an electric pump on any of the 6 or more old Fords I drive. I use Bob Shewmans, gadgiteer@aol.com flex hose with a check valve built in the pump fitting. This holds the fuel in the pump. With this hose andton 6 volts with 2/0 cables it starts on the first turn of the engine just about every time. On others that sit for 8 months I remove the air cleaner give it a couple shots of starter fluid as it is cranking and it starts right up if it starts to die give a couple short shots and that's it. G.M.
39portlander
Well-known member
I second that G.M. I got "hosed" last month and it is well made. The FH-2V W/built in check valve is a must
Scott
ScottScott up where you live you should get a set of Bobs 180 degree stats. I have them in my 39 convertible and the temperature is between 178 and 182 in weather from 50 degrees (that's about as cold as it gets here) to 90 every time I check it. I find the engine runs extra smooth when running at the same temperature all the time. I just ordered a set for my 39 P/U plus a carb base insulator. They should be here tomorrow. The fuel pump on the P/U is staying cool with the side hood vents, even the firewall don't get as hot. The carb gas bowl is getting to hot so I'm going to put the insulate spacer from Bob under the carb. After I test the carb temp with the vented spacer I will reduce the heat riser holes to 1/4" this way I can see the improvent from the spacer then the partialy blocked heat riser. Also the heat on the intake manifold where the carb bolts on and the base of the carb before and after the spacer. G.M.
Dick Webber
Senior Member
I, too, use an electric pump on my 49 Mercury and it saves a lot of cranking after the car has set more than 3 or 4 days. Turn it on, wait a few seconds then start and shut it off. Seems like it has helped push through an occasional vapor lock as well.
Firepower flyer
Senior Member
I must be lucky,my 50 f1 will sit a week or more and if I pump the throttle once it will fire right up with no issues.This is on a untouched truck,stock pump and I rebuilt the 7RT carb.I'm waiting for the new gas to ruin my good old Ford fuel pump
Joe
Joe
flathead 53
Well-known member
my 53 f-100 can sit for a week ,i just pull choke all the way hit the button and it starts ,i have a new carb ,new stock fuel pump.
Mr 42
Senior Member
I dont like the Electric pump in line with original pump, I think there is a risk that you will pump fuel into the oilpan if the original pump membran is faulty.
The fuel should not leak out of the carb after one or two weeks (even three or four), If you let the car stand for a week or so remove the top of the carb and check the fuel level, Should be almost normal. If not fix the carb.
If that's Ok and it still hardstarted double check the fuel lines for small airleaks, that allow's the fuel to drain back.
Had a problem with a modern fuel line that had "cloth" around it but the rubber was cracked letting air in but not fuel out= hard started after a week.
Check all connections for airleaks.
Recently had a 59AB that was hardstarted after a day or so (sometimes a couple of hours) , after replacing the fuelpump a couple of times, we found out the the fuelpump inlet connection was a botch job letting in small amounts of air allowing the fuel drain back to reach the same level as in the fueltank, in a short time,
when restarted it had a BIG problem sucking up the fuel
and it was the connection of the fuel line the was screwed up (not Original).
Works great now.
New fuel is hard on rubber so double check it.
The fuel should not leak out of the carb after one or two weeks (even three or four), If you let the car stand for a week or so remove the top of the carb and check the fuel level, Should be almost normal. If not fix the carb.
If that's Ok and it still hardstarted double check the fuel lines for small airleaks, that allow's the fuel to drain back.
Had a problem with a modern fuel line that had "cloth" around it but the rubber was cracked letting air in but not fuel out= hard started after a week.
Check all connections for airleaks.
Recently had a 59AB that was hardstarted after a day or so (sometimes a couple of hours) , after replacing the fuelpump a couple of times, we found out the the fuelpump inlet connection was a botch job letting in small amounts of air allowing the fuel drain back to reach the same level as in the fueltank, in a short time,
when restarted it had a BIG problem sucking up the fuel
and it was the connection of the fuel line the was screwed up (not Original).
Works great now.
New fuel is hard on rubber so double check it.
The various 94 carbs I've run at different times have all run out of prime on day four - meaning grinding on the starter to fill the carb. Never any starting issues with any of them (pre-day four) and all have run sweetly. My latest carb has just been rebuild and is the same. It feeds my 8BA via the mechanical pump with a 6 volt Carter electric fuel pump in the line for starting (post-day four). I had to install a bypass and non-return valve though as resistance in the electric pump meant the mechanical pump couldn't deliver enough fuel over 40 mph. I subsequently discovered the Airtex pumps don't require this and are the better way to go.
