starting engine for the first time

T

tmurph

Junior Member
I'd like to start the rebuilt engine now that it's sitting in the frame before the body goes on, what do I need to do to make this happen, temp gas tank, complete electrical system or a couple of well placed jumper wires? any thoughts


Thanks
love the barn
 
Bare minimum should be fine to just fire up the engine. Radiator in place and have the appropriate liquid in it, temporary fuel system, connect the generator to the battery, put a jumper to the coil and you should have enough to start. Just make sure your spark rod is connected to the distributor and the ignition timing is set properly. LASTLY, be careful, you have a chassis and nothing to protect you from the moving parts! Let us know how it works out.
 
And DON'T forget to pull the ignition out and drop a quart of motoroil in Before any start up.
 
If it has not been run before add oil to the valve chamber throught the distributor hole (1 qt.) A few squirts in the cylinder through plug holes. Insure 3 quarts in your pan. Assuming ignition is in time-fire it up:)
 
Wow, I've seen flatheads run like that before, some with only one head, but never with a fan on it. That guy must be crazy, or too young to know better!
 
Jim,

The brick mounting didn't look too sturdy either; would prefer it setting in a frame and properly bolted down.

Ron
 
I prefer to add about a pint of oil through the distributor hole the remainder to the pan, then with the ignition off, then wind the motor over on the starter motor for at lease 30 seconds before turning the ignition back on. This ensures proper lubrication throughout. I have been told by a motor engineer who has reconditioned over 100 Model 'A' blocks to keep the engine revs quite high for the first 2 minutes and rev up and down quit sharply on the hand throttle during that time. If I did not hear it from him, I would never have attempted this method at all if it had come from someone less qualified. I tried it with my last full overhaul and the engine runs extremely quietly and has plenty of power. I have used the car on some occasions as a wedding car and on one occasion the groom asked from the back seat why I turned the engine off at intersections. He could not detect it running.
 
brum1 said:
If it has not been run before add oil to the valve chamber throught the distributor hole (1 qt.) A few squirts in the cylinder through plug holes. Insure 3 quarts in your pan. Assuming ignition is in time-fire it up:)
Click to expand...
make sure the vhicle is out of gear.
 
re-torque the head to 55 ftlbs after you run it and get it right hot! My engine re builder has been rebuilding them for over 50 years and he told me this. Don't wait until it cools down.. do it right away. There is a sequence you have to do for each head bolt.
 
I remember when I bought the 4 cyl pontiac tempest engine to put into my 32 at the salvage yd that that was how we checked it, on a tire.
Paul in CT
 
I have attached the Start Up instructions from Rich @ Antique Engine Rebuilding, Skokie IL
Note he agrees with many of the individuals who previously posted.
My start up instructions are almost identical to Rich's.
Good Day!
Dave in MN
www.durableperformance.net

Well...I am having a bit of trouble attaching so I will just copy and paste....sorry. Here it is!


MODEL A


REMANUFACTURED ENGINE BLOCK INSTRUCTIONS​

1. Do not attempt to start or run engine without maintaining proper oil level and flow. We recommend 10 W 30 or 5 W 30 motor oils. The Model A engine with a steel camshaft and flat tappets performs well with new motor oils.
2. Check oil flow immediately after starting engine. If gauge is not used loosen lower oil pipe bolt. Oil should start to spurt out in first minute and half of running. If no oil in two minutes turn engine off. Determine why no oil flow and repair as necessary.
3. WARRANTY VOID if engine run or operated with out maintaining proper oil level and flow.
4. Re-torque head to 60 lbs after first warm up, at 50 miles, 100 miles and 500 miles.
5. Maximum timing advance is 28º This is the point of no return and will promote longer bearing life.
6. Do not attempt to start or run engine at anytime without maintaining proper coolant level. We recommend the use of antifreeze and 1/2 vial of block sealer.
7. WARRANTY VOID if engine run or operated excessive temperatures or with out maintaining proper water level.
8. All parts installed in or on engine are to be clean and in good working order. The cleaner the engine, the longer the life.
9. ANTIQUE ENGINE REBUILDING is not responsible for damages occurring to engine or other due to use of worn, dirty, or faulty parts. This includes but is not limited to water pump, radiator, distributor, oil pump, oil pump drive gear, carburetor, belts, hoses, manifolds, gaskets, ect.
10. Engine should always be maintained and operated according to manufacture specifications.
11. WARRANTY VOID if any part or parts assembled by remanufacture are dissembled by other than remanufacture, without notification.



TIPS​

1. Add (3) quarts of oil to crankcase and (1) to valve chamber through distributor hole four quarts total.
2. 24 hours before starting add one to two squirts of oil to cylinders through spark plug holes to lubricate cylinder walls, pistons, and rings.
3.
Ensure proper spark.
Ensure gas flow If all three correct engine will start.
Ensure proper timing.

3a. If after seven cranks engine is not running check all items in #3 above. Excessive cranking can gas wash cylinders this can cause damage before engine is started.
4. After starting check for leaks, do not let engine over heat. Ensure proper water and oil levels and flows.

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR​

1. Weak, broken or faulty spring and plunger
2. Proper length flywheel bolts.
3. Remove dipper shelf from oil pan and clean bottom of oil pan underside of dipper shelf. Rinsing or soaking will not sufficiently clean parts.
4. Do not idle engine to break in. This can cause loss of lubrication to cylinder walls and damage to engine.
5. Avoid long cranking times. This can gas wash cylinder walls, which is loss of lubrication and can cause damage to engine.

6. If using larger intake valves ensure clearance between head and valve. The high compression Snyders head we sell does have ample clearance.


ANTIQUE ENGINE REBUILDING


4835 LOUISE


SKOKIE, IL 60077
(847) 674-6716​


​
 
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