starting car for the first time

[FrankWest]

This weekend I will try to start my 1933 model B 4 cylinder engine for the first time. Should I put high test fuel in the tank? Bardahl lead additive??
It has not run in 20 years? Motor turns, starter works, oil pump works.

 

[Johnnydidd]

Make sure the gas tank is clean, use unlead gas, change oil, and water. Then try to start, There will be a lot of other thing happen after start up. good luck.

 

[chasingmire]

I found this on the internet and thoght it was good information on starting barn finds:

FLATHEAD START-UP PROCEDURES FOR OLD MOTORS THAT HAVE BEEN SITTING FOR A LONG TIME
Read completely before attempting to work on the vehicle
Use good safety procedures to protect people and property

This article may miss a couple things, but the following are the some of the usual recommendations:
1) Check oil for clean appearance. If very low, add to full. If overfull, drain out the excess. If it’s very thin or otherwise nasty looking/smelling, drain and refill with new 10/30W. If oil looks dark but ok, leave it for now.
2) Loosen the generator/fan assembly to allow lots of slack in the belt (or belts if a two-belt system). Try to turn the water pump pulleys by hand. Repeat this test on the generator pulley and the fan assy. If all parts turn easily, reset the tension in the belts by snugging them back up. If any of these rotating parts will not turn easily, leave the belt(s) loose. You will not need them to operate for a brief motor start-up test and they would just restrict the motor from turning over, possibly burning up a belt if it starts.
3) Pull the spark plug wire from the middle of the distributor to the coil.
4) Check and clean up any battery terminal connections. This includes the ground strap from the firewall or frame to the block. Use a new or good, fully charged-up battery.
5) Make sure all primary ignition wires are in place and that there are no bare un-insulated wires. If you suspect the wiring is not correctly hooked up, stop here and refer to the wiring schematics at www.flatheadv8.com.
6) Remove all spark plugs. Have a look at each. Clean and re-gap, or replace as necessary. Most Ford & Mercury flathead V8’s originally specified the Champion H-10 plug, but here are alternatives if so desired. The gap should be between .025 and .030”. Complete tune-up information can be found on the FlatheadV8.com website as well.
7) Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel tank at the fuel pump for now. This steel line ends at the firewall and makes the final connection to the fuel pump through a short length of flexible fuel line. Disconnect either end of the flex line. This will prevent the fuel pump from pulling the old gas up into the motor.
8) Make sure all rags, hands, tools, etc are clear of the motor fan, and use the ignition starter switch to turn over the engine. If the starter hits but won't turn the motor over, don’tkeep trying. Place a socket and large breaker bar on the front pulley nut and try to turn the motor over manually, turning clockwise. If still stuck, you will have to try using some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders to help loosen things up. If the starter turns things over ok, let it spin about 3 or 4 times, for about five seconds each time. This will help circulate some oil back through the oil galleys and bearings in the motor.

 

[Mac VP]

There is a missing bunch of information on the Start Up Procedures post above. This link is to the entire webpage.

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_startup.htm

 

[Doctor's Ford]

Frank. The mechanical fuel pump will likely need some help to get enough fuel in the carburetor. This is what I did and you may find it helpful: I disconnected the fuel line entering the carburetor and using a 20 cc syringe I injected about 80 cc of gasoline directly into the carb. Then I reconnected the fuel line and tried to start it. Before I followed this step the engine was cranking but not firing. Good luck this weekend !

 

[gary635g]

My first Boss and Best Mechanic I have ever known Frank Jubon Oldtown Idaho Auto Wreckers 1950's always towed any newly over hauled or not run for a long time engine would tow in 2nd gear for 1 mile with throttle shut to pull lube up cylinder walls before ever turning the ignition on admitting fuel and starting the engines this seemed to work very well and of course allowed oil pressure to build up also. Gary

 

[El Rat]

I'm big on spinning the motor over without plugs, builds oil pressure and lubes the cylinder walls!

 

[A bones]

Step 8 above mentions using Marvel Mystery Oil if the engine won't turn. My belief is different. A lot happens in twenty years. I must squirt MMO into the cylinders of a static motor before trying to crank it over. Rather than hear it go pop-a-de-pop-pop it is far more important to insure that the cylinder walls receive no scratches from dirt grit or corrosion. First things first,before the plugs come out a good source of compressed air to blow away loose dirt and grit from the top of the head and the spark plug wells. Next squirt your favorite spray around the spark plug wells to loosen and flush out any remaining foreign matter (starting fluid, carb cleaner, WD40, liquid wrench). wipe wipe wipe wipe with rag or paper towel more compressed air, Then clean and dry, pull the plugs. Squirt in some MMO roll the motor over to spread the oil and build pressure (as said above). When it starts the first time you know it has to smoke. Don't worry be happy. Enjoy yer day, Tom. PS Don't forget to bring extra battery to the party. Although you do get more points for bringing it to life with the hand crank!

 

[CC33]

And by all means, have a fire extinguisher on hand as precautionary.

 

[supereal]

An engine that has not run for twenty years should have the head(s) pulled for inspection before trying to start it, Look for rusty cylinder walls, stuck valves, etc. We have even found dead mice in a cylinder! It takes more time, but can prevent destruction of the engine.