starting after 25 year slumber

Vanspeed

Well-known member
Ok guys, getting ready to try and start my motor after a 25 year slumber. Carb is off getting rebuilt, oil is super clean, motor turns over just fine. Going to get a battery and some fuel parts for the tank,(new line, shut off valve, and sediment bowl)n but what else should I do? Still has the brass straps for wires and plugs look good.
 
I would pull the distributor and pour a quart of oil down the hole to pre lubricate the main bearings, cam shaft bearings, and cam gear. Drain a quart out of the sump and, if there is any water in the sump, you will see it. Gar Williams
 
One of my engines had clean oil but when I dropped the pan The oil pump screen was blocked and the pan was loaded with crap. I'm thinking the oil had years to settle all the carbon and sludge to the bottom Good luck.
 
Something elictrical will be the thing that stoped the car 25 years ago, find that and fix it. Good luck.
 
This story sounds familiar. I just got mine started 3 weeks ago after a 25yr rest. Isn't it a great sound. P.S. mine didn't stop from an electrical problem, previous owner had begun dis assembly for restoration when other projects got in the way.
 
This is similar James, the car was starting to be restored and the owner passed away. Looks like he started the motor often as it was rigged up to a coffee can and had newer gas lines on it and the igition, battery, generator has been rigged up to work, all other electrial is gone.
 
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It's the years of sludge in the pan that's the killer. Once it's warmed up and starts to move around it will do nothing very good at all. Cold it is fairly inert, so you can change the oil and everything looks lovely and golden on the dipstick. This assumes that it hasn't blocked the oil pump screen already.....

Drop the pan!
 
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This is me and Dear Old Dad performing the same task a couple of months back on my ccpu. We always try and work in a clean well ventilated area!

Outside of engine looks ok, no obvious leaks or cracks. Oil on dipstick looks clean and clear. Valve chest clear. So far so good.

Drop pan. Hmmn. Seems a little heavy. Bottom end all looks good though.

Remove pump. Screen half blocked with crud. Pump half worn so replace with better one from the stores.

Inspect pan. Eeek. A good two or three inches of sludge and sand. Debate using it to resurface driveway. Luckily no babbitt, springs, washers or furry bits of timing gear. Literally had to dig it out. Clean, paint and reassemble.

Vehicle last tagged in 1961. Probably carried on working on the fruit farm that it came from after that date.

Previous owner had 'got it running' but happily it seems not long enough to do any damage. Glad we took the time to check. Modern high detergent oil sluicing all that muck about would have meant an early rebuild.

Last pic is DOD just about to say 'I told you so'
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I agree with the others drop the pan and get rid of all of the sludge. Pan gaskets are cheap compared to rebuilding the engine. Rod
 
I would never have started mine up without first as you say dropping the pan and checking it out first. I don't care what the outside looks like. Also replaced all gaskets.
 
Ok, cleaned the carb and rebuilt it, could not get the one jet out of the carb. The one that screws down deap into the casting. Replacedl ingnition switch, cleaned the points and brass strips. She took awhile but fired up. Very hard to turn over compared to my coupe. Ran her for about 15 minutes. Wo'nt run with choke open, backfires some but does sound ok. No water leaks. Actualluy drove it but wow, not running good.She does not like a low rpm, will just die. Is this a carb issue I should look into or something else?
 
Is the timing correct, points adj correctly, fresh gas? That's a start. Vacuum leak either at intake/exh manifold or possibly between carb halves. Keep us posted.
Paul in CT
 
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