starting a car with hand crank

FrankWest

FrankWest

Well-known member
I have 1933 model B 4 cylinder original engine.
I have to remove my starter to clean and trouble shoot.
When the starter is removed.
I want to be able to start the car with the hand crank which I have for my model B.
What is the proper procedure?
I am concerned about two things.
1) with the starter removed from the car will oil from the engine flow out of the opening?
2 After the car turns over how do you handle the crank. I know take it out, but how fast do you have to react to the car starting to remove the crank?
 
No oil will leak out.
If it hand cranks like the old Cletracks we had, when you hear the engine fire, pull out.

If your crank snout looks like the ones on the few flatheads I've had, they are kinda idiot proof, as they won't stay (or want to stay) engaged to the crank handle.
 
Frank,

The crank should "kick out" of the pulley when the engine starts. Assuming your engine is cold:

1. DO NOT turn on the ignition yet.
2. Have someone hold the choke open while you turn the engine over two revolutions. Some carburetors have a place to attach a wire to the choke lever at the carburetor so you can open the choke yourself while you turn the engine over. Turn the gas mixture adjustment (controlled by the choke knob) open about one turn (be sure to close it after starting) and set the throttle button at about a quarter throttle.
3. Insert the crank into the engine with the hand grip at 6 o'clock.
4. Turn on the ignition.
5. Pull up quickly on the crank. DO NOT push down. If the engine backfires you will get a very unpleasant surprise (sprained or broken shoulder). Do not wrap your thumb around the handle or you get a different surprise (broken thumb).
6. If the engine is tuned it should be easy to start.
7. If the engine doesn't start go back to step 3 (except the ignition is already turned on)

NOTE TO MODEL A GUYS: You need to put the spark advance lever up (up to start up) or you will get an unpleasant surprise when you pull on the crank.

Charlie Stephens
 
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As an aside, I have a 1948 Seagrave pumper with a 468 CI Pierce-Arrow sourced V12. I When I was younger, I won a lot of bets at car shows starting it by the hand crank. It started quite easily. That may have been due to the fact that it had a complete dual ignition system and has only 2300 miles on it! Like Mike said above, it's a pretty intuitive process. And, like Charlie says, watch your thumb!
 
Tubman On the fire department where I served we had a 1937 Ahrens Fox front mount. It had a 980 Cu. In. Hercules 6 cylinder. The pump was in front of that. The hand crank was nearly 4 feet long. We would try to use it but no one could start it. One day the Chief introduced me to a retired guy. He said "Meet the only guy I ever knew who crank started the Fox." He said when they had a call the battery was dead. He said the bell was ringing, the Chief, Asst. Chief and Captain were all yelling at me! I got it started. When we got back I tried again but never was able to do it again.
 
I have a '33 V-8 and while in college in Southern Oregon, 1963, at 5,000 Ft. elevation my battery went bad. A college student with no money, I had to either crank it or be pushed. Weather was cold and when I cranked it, it always started on the third crank when cold and first time when hot. I do not remember ever pumping the gas prior to cranking but I may have and probably pulled the choke out. I never had the engine back fire but that was using "real regular gasoline".
 
I had a tractor that only had a crank, used it for years. The rule was only pull from 6:00 up to 12, never any more. You are trying to get it to fire one cylinder and it will do the rest.
 
Watch out for the thumb! A lot of people back then ended up with broken thumbs when they kicked back on you!
 
I had a TR3 Triumph that had a crank, so I had to try it... didn't have the benefit of others experience- but never got in trouble.

I used to prop start my Cessna 120- didn't have a battery. The prop is really impressive when considered as a weapon. The thing to do was to have the engine primed and ready before turning the mag switch...

I was very prompt at moving out of the way.

Karl
 
I always carry an old fashioned clothes pin with me. With ignition off, levers up on Model A, choke held out with the clothes pin, I pull through a couple of revs. Then pull the clothes pin, choke returns to off and I turn the ignition on. Pull up from o'clock a bit and the engine will be running. If not I have forgotten something. Always work with the hand open and never wrap the thumb around the crank handle. It is so easy I never carry a spare starter or starter parts, no matter how far I'll be driving.
 
Everyone should at some point in their life have the opportunity to try and start a Model T. You learn quick, or your thumb will let you know !!! Ask me how I know.
 
Crank with your left hand, that way when it does backfire it will slap the palm of your hand not the bones on the back.
Also remember, with a B engine and distributor you are set to fire before top dead center not after like an A or T.
 
Maybe just park it on a slope, get in, turn on the ignition, push in the clutch, put it in second gear, get it rolling and pop the clutch. And off you go.
 
On my 39 did not have a hand crank handle So I jack up the right rear put it in 3rd gear SWITCH ON turn wheel to right (clockwise) Back in the 50s that was every day not enough money to get good battery. Bubba
 
You can also jack up one rear wheel put it in high gear and spin the rear wheel to start
it. We used to start Model T's that didn't want to start on the hand crank easily.
We usually used the drivers side wheel for some reason.
 
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