Starter won't engage, just whirl

DrinkMan

DrinkMan

Member
I've searched the threads and many describe similar effects but not describe the same noise. My starter has been working fine and turning over the engine reliably since I've owned it. However, the car would not reliably start. Spent all day tracing problems using this forum. I was not getting spark. After fixing multiple problems (that dang wire in the distributor, shorted wire in the armored ignition cable, points that were not closing), I finally got reliable spark!

Rolled the car out of the garage and set up for what I was convinced was going to be a successful start. Pressed starter button and got a strange whirring noise like the motor was spinning but not engaging. Thought it was the battery but when I hooked up my battery tender it showed fully charged.

Here is a video of our attempts:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vhZ89F-k9po
 
Yes, spark lever was up.

Starter removed. Spring is broken. Checking size and ordering now. Thanks Machine Girl.
 
machine girl said:
think about the modern bendix, a little harder to install, but you wont be doing it again.
Click to expand...
Couldn't disagree with you more! My "modern-type " failed within 20 starts. Conventional one did more 12 years ( and that was with 12 v going through a 6v starter!) . Replacement conventional bendix has done 3 years so far....
 
Since it appears that you have a 1928 car be sure to check if your starter has a 1/2 shaft. You may be unable to use the modern bendix or purchase the spring you need from the current vendors. Mine has the special version which uses different parts than those found on Oct 28 and later cars. See page 288 of the service bulletins.
Supergnat
 
I was lucky. I had the post Oct 1928 spring. Easy to find. I'm less than 25 min from Mikes. Either cheap and fast mail or a quick trip up the road if I can find time during business hours.

Should be trying to start again Wednesday.
 
I agree with many of the above. If you want to fix this for good, get a modern barrel starter drive. It will not work on an early 28 starter (1/2" shaft), but will work on the rest. Fairly easy to do. The best price for this item is from Bratton antique auto.

Phone 1-800-774-1930
Item # 15961 $22.30

Snyder sells a tool that makes it easy to change (Modern Starter Drive Compressor # A-11350-MT #17.50) or you can do it with a screwdriver (more work)

Henry's 31
 
johnbuckley said:
Couldn't disagree with you more! My "modern-type " failed within 20 starts. Conventional one did more 12 years ( and that was with 12 v going through a 6v starter!) . Replacement conventional bendix has done 3 years so far....
Click to expand...

I'm with you on this, John.
 
Just wondering, before you do all of this, have you tried to turn the engine a bit with the crank, or put it in gear an push it a few inches? You might just have a missing tooth.
 
Just a follow-up to close the thread. Thanks to all the help from everyone. Spring replaced. Model A started on first attempt perfectly. Idles nicely. Now working on adjusting the carburetor. As per usual - the only short cut I took rebuilding the carb was not touching the throttle plate so therefore, I have a vacuum leak across the throttle shaft. Thanks to this site and links, I can fix that next.

(and before I get all the comments back about the washers - yes, I replaced them and yes, I did another attempt after the picture was taken and bent them up properly)

14522667853_880d4415e7_z.jpg

14522667853_880d4415e7_z.jpg
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The down tab on the lock washers should go in the space at the end of the spring bolt loop, but your's should be OK, so I wouldn't change it now.

I've seen many bent springs, but not a broken one like your's. Kickback from not retarding the sprk is the usual cause of bent Bendix springs.

If you bend the locking tab just enough for the hex head to pass by, then the locking washers can be used 2 or 3 times before they need to be replaced.
 
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