starter switch

4

41plym

Member
I bought a new switch from one of the big vendors and it doesn't line up with the rod. I took off a switch that worked off the spark advance lever so I don't have one to compare it to. Is the angle of the switch wrong or could it be something else?
 
Could be that the body is mounted to high or to low on the frame.... but those switches have lots of play on the switch side so it would have to be way to high or way to low.... there is a grommet in the hole that goes thru the firewall....could that be mounted wrong ?

Or was the switch made by Vintique ? if it was it is poor quality and probably the problem...nothing they make is any good.

Joel
 
I took the grommet out of the fire wall which leaves a big hole and it's still not even close to the right angle. I put an offset in the rod but to make it work but it's not right.
I'm not sure what brand the switch is it's unmarked. The body and motor are mounted in the right spot, I don't believe either has ever been removed.
 
Hi 41,

Had exact same problem expressed in an earlier post on about 07/18/2013 after just buying two (2) "new" starter switches.

My old & two (2) new switches were hanging up in the "ON" position whereby the pedal rod could not rise into the "OFF" position -- starter kept rotating while engine was running.

These new switches are hefty & well made; however, the small "circular" metal opening for the threaded female switch rod tube is so tight & small that the switch's threaded female rod tube angle cannot be adjusted.


Think all new ones from Vintique are like that.

Quick Fix:

1. Mount switch on starter & place a 5" high by 6" long piece of vertical cardboard immediately adjacent to the engine side of the switch.

2. With a pencil, very carefully trace the "exact" profile of the starter switch, the starter switch rod tube angle, & the starter pedal rod angle to witness that the starter switch rod tube angle has to be changed for proper alignment with the "operable" starter switch pedal rod when it moves up & down at an angle in the "ON" & "OFF" position.

3. With a Dremel tool & an abrasive cylinder, carefully grind the new switch's metal circular opening until it is elliptical; hence, such that the starter rod tube angle can be adjusted up & down in the enlarged elliptical opening to match the angle of the starter pedal rod.

4. Be careful to first get the "exact" angle required from your cardboard diagram so as to not make the switch's elliptical opening too large.

5. Worked for me -- little at a time, patience, & try until you get it right to where it cannot jam & stick in the depressed "ON" position.
 
Thanks H.L. mine is also sticking in the start position. My thought is why should I have to do this with a brand new "exactly like the original" part. I'm happy to pay a more for quality replacement parts.
41plym
 
My friend had the same problem with his new switch. I wonder if this is a new problem, as I don't recall anyone having problems in the past.

I was lucky to find a good original switch at my last swap meet.
 
Have you contacted the vendor / parts house that you bought the switch from? Usually they not only want to help you solve the problem (refund, better part, etc) but they want to hear from the user - what works and what does NOT work. They can't be motivated to change their suppliers unless they hear negative reviews from the user. Let them know - they want to hear from you. You should not have to resort to the time, effort, hassle, as H. L. Chauvin had to go through.
 
I called A&L in CT today, "they do not reproduce them yet" The only new one available is a Vintique they told me. So I will use the new one I have here.
 
Had the exact problem yesterday, found a serviceable original. We need to tell the venders and they need to be all over the manufactures. If we don't complain we will keep getting this crap.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top