starter switch Q...
- Thread starter hardtimes
- Start date
msmaron
Well-known member
I dont think there is enough space here have all of us list the problems we have had with REPRO CRAP!!!
Now A&L Parts....no problems at all, he took the time to make it right and his son has followed the same, those are good parts, but check out Jim Mason's web site to answer your very questions with pictures also
Good luck
Now A&L Parts....no problems at all, he took the time to make it right and his son has followed the same, those are good parts, but check out Jim Mason's web site to answer your very questions with pictures also
Good luck
Aerocraft
Well-known member
It has been my experience that, even with original switches, the bronze strip that contacts with the stud on the starter will eventually fail where the square hole is stamped in the end of the strip. This hole is stamped to receive the special copper bolt that holds the parts together. The square hole acts as an index and I have experienced the strip cracking and braking at the square hole. Part of the annual inspection of my cars is to disassemble, clean, and visually check for cracks. Gar Williams
Jack '29 Sport Coupe
Well-known member
Sometimes the nut on the threaded post that you hook the battery cable to can become loose
and the little piece that allows for the "spring affect" can collapse and when you push down on the starter button the bronze piece won't make contact. It's an easy fix,
but can happen at the worst time. That little piece has been re-designed and is now
carried by Mike's in Georgia on their new switches. It's an improvement, but nevertheless, It is one of the extra parts I carry with me in the coupe. In addition to
checking for tightness on the nut that goes on the threaded post, I check the four
screws that attach onto the starter on a regular basis.
Jack
and the little piece that allows for the "spring affect" can collapse and when you push down on the starter button the bronze piece won't make contact. It's an easy fix,
but can happen at the worst time. That little piece has been re-designed and is now
carried by Mike's in Georgia on their new switches. It's an improvement, but nevertheless, It is one of the extra parts I carry with me in the coupe. In addition to
checking for tightness on the nut that goes on the threaded post, I check the four
screws that attach onto the starter on a regular basis.
Jack
Last edited:
hardtimes
Well-known member
Gar,
I'm using an 'original' 6v starter on 12v system. Just 'cleaned' it up, undercut the commutator mica(hacksaw blade is right size for this)and painted and installed a REPO switch. After FIVE years work, it suddenly doesn't. Thanks for all your response, I'll start with 'weakest link'...repo switch! Good advice indeed about carrying spare. Rick
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
Starters should NEVER be undercut!
When a starter is undercut it leaves a groove where the copper from the brushes can build up and short the windings. Due to the stiff springs and hard copper brushes, the mica will be worn away as needed. I had to repair a starter for this reason a year ago. After I turned the commutator to remove the undercut, the starter then worked fine.
Tom Endy
Well-known member
Some of the repos on the market are not made with the same material as ordered by Henry. The arm on an original is designed to act as a spring and retract itself when you take your foot off. I once thought the material was supposed to be bronze, but have since been told it is some special blend of copper. Some of the repos are plain copper and don't spring back when they should.
I was on a tour one time when the starter switch hung up on one of the cars. One fellow on the tour was aware of the problem and fixed the switch by inserting a short length of rubber heater hose on the arm to give it more spring back.
Tom Endy
I was on a tour one time when the starter switch hung up on one of the cars. One fellow on the tour was aware of the problem and fixed the switch by inserting a short length of rubber heater hose on the arm to give it more spring back.
Tom Endy
hardtimes
Well-known member
Tom,
For those interested, I dismantled the 'repo' starter switch and here's is what I found and did:
The switch was made by "Vintique" (familiar/still in bidness?) and has made in USA stamped on it. I got a big smile when saw this..not an engineer, but that made me happy! I have NOT seen an original, but there is a plastic piece in there that pushes against the copper 'spring' strap when starter rod is pushed. I found that this plastic piece found enough room to pop out of its assigned place/function when the copper 'spring' gave up part of its springyness over five years useage. Subsequent to plastic part displacement...arcing occurred (lots). My remedy was to "readjust" the spring arch and clean off all carbon/arc material. Works like a charm now! A tip for those that don't know/never heard of "dielectric grease". I put this on the areas of contact and this DOES prevent/dimenish arcing. I use this stuff in All electrical connections for years...stuff doesn't corode/oxide and even light bulbs last much longer in the application..even household!
However, I will contact "Mikes" and investigate the upgraded copper strap as mentioned...thanks for that!
Tom W,
FWIW....as a commutator/brush setup wears over time...the copper CAN/WILL deposit across FLUSH copper/mica and cause problems. I have in 50 years never experienced this situation (shorting) problem when undercutting the mica. Your mileage/experience may vary... Rick