Starter Switch Alignment

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rhoadesm64

Junior Member
My"A" has been starting with no issues until recently. Push starter rod and get nothing, this has happened before just after I put the new starter switch on. When I removed the switched I noticed that the alignment between the switch and the starter button is off. Is there a trick to get these to align for better contact? BTW, the safety fuse is on top of the switch not under it.

Thanks
 

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Guten Morgen!

This fuse does not secure the starter (they very rarely have a high-current fuse) but only the current that is tapped there for the rest of the car electronics.

Your two contact areas are not parallel. You can bend that a little.

It is important during the starting process to always press the start pedal very hard so that the contacts touches well.
 
rhoadesm64 said:
My"A" has been starting with no issues until recently. Push starter rod and get nothing, this has happened before just after I put the new starter switch on. When I removed the switched I noticed that the alignment between the switch and the starter button is off. Is there a trick to get these to align for better contact? BTW, the safety fuse is on top of the switch not under it.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I had the same issue and it looks like you have your fuse holder installed UNDER the starter switch.

With the fuse holder under the starter switch it induces an angle to the stater housing which results in the single point of contact on the starter switch contacts. There is too much amperage flowing through the small contact area and it arcs and sparks until it burns the surface and prevents electrical flow.

Remove the starter switch and install the starter switch directly to the starter housing and the fuse holder ON TOP of the starter switch housing.



Clean both of your starter contacts before reinstalling so you have the full contact surface.


GUESS I SHOULD HAVE READ THE ENTIRE POST...SORRY
 
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X2 with JW and also make sure that the copper strip in the switch is not twisted so that it is not rubbing on one side or the other. If it wears through the cardboard it will short out.
 
I compared a reproduction switch to 2 NOS original switches that I have. The contact strip in an original starter switch is a stiff flat spring, unlike the soft copper strip in the reproduction switch. I think the original contract strip is made of either a hardened copper or a beryllium copper.

Things that go wrong with a reproduction switch are:
>Contact strip bends, and eventually rubs through the card stock insulator and short circuits violently;
>Contact bends and makes poor contact with the starter contact button;
>Contact strip sticks to the starter button, so the motor does not shutoff.
 
The strip on the reproduction switches is not very springy unlike the originals, so it bends way too easy. Like Bob said, the repro one is made of copper. Originals I think were some kind of copper alloy.
 
Thanks for all the helpful information. I think my main issue is the bendix getting stuck. I removed the started, checked it, and then put it back on. Starter worked just fine. This is the 3rd time this has happened since I have owned this truck.
 
rhoadesm64 said:
Thanks for all the helpful information. I think my main issue is the bendix getting stuck. I removed the started, checked it, and then put it back on. Starter worked just fine. This is the 3rd time this has happened since I have owned this truck.
Click to expand...

Have you thought about getting a Modern Starter Drive?
 
If the Bendix gets stuck engaged, , a trick is with the motor off and car in gear, rock the car reverse/forward until the Bendix releases.. Most of the time the Bendix will release


If having a hard time starting and repeatedly pressing the starter with your foot, pause between tries to ensure the bendix has completely disengaged before trying again. Doing it too quickly can be a cause of stuck Bendix.
 
Guten Tag!

Tip: The Bendix should not be lubricated. Neither the helical gear nor the drive and flywheel teeth. Contaminate grease and oil + dust and the Bendix becomes too sluggish.

The oil vapor in the housing is sufficient.
 
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