Starter slows then stops

I wish people would read the entire thread before responding so we wouldn't get the same suggestion repeated over and over again.
 
I read a few, then I give my advice. I don't read all because of time. I can't read as fast as I used to. Giving the same suggestion over and over reinforces it. unless it's wrong, that's a good thing. Sometimes I read solutions that are totally of the wall, probably because the responder didn't fully understand the problem being presented. I come back a re read what I wrote the next day and see my mistakes. Sometimes I cringe! But when you have a problem, don't you feel better about it when everyone agrees on the solution?
Terry


Ruth said:
I wish people would read the entire thread before responding so we wouldn't get the same suggestion repeated over and over again.
Click to expand...
 
Update:

Charged the battery and boy does the starter sound good!!!
Cleaned all the connections, "clean-bright and tight".

Now, motor will not start. I have cleaned the sparkplugs and one plug's ceramic spins. Guess it's time for new plugs.

One thing at a time and I will get her running again.

Question: To retard the spark do you pull the left lever all the way down or push it all the way up?

Previous owner said to pull it all the way down and it has started in the past. I am just making sure all my ducks are in a row.

Thanks again all.
 
keywestwego said:
Update:

Charged the battery and boy does the starter sound good!!!
Cleaned all the connections, "clean-bright and tight".

Now, motor will not start. I have cleaned the sparkplugs and one plug's ceramic spins. Guess it's time for new plugs.

One thing at a time and I will get her running again.

Question: To retard the spark do you pull the left lever all the way down or push it all the way up?

Previous owner said to pull it all the way down and it has started in the past. I am just making sure all my ducks are in a row.

Thanks again all.
Click to expand...

Happened to me: Make sure to turn the gas valve under the passenger side to on. Otherwise nothing. Form my 29 Tudor, on has the handle surface vertical (Up and down)

I say this because it happened to me. I went back to the guy I bought the car from and he said the same thing. 1) make sure the key is in the ignition and turned on; (2) Make sure to turn the gas valve back on; (3) Make sure to start with lever fully retarded. Retarded is all the way up on the lever

Two levers to deal with :

Gas valve - open is when valve handle is 100% vertical (up and down) Located under the gas tank inside the car on most cars just over the passenger's feet and against the firewall. Later models were located outside under the hood on the firewall.

Second is the spark advance. It is the lever on the left of the steering column where you would expect to see a turn signal on a modern car. Retarded is all the way up, which is where you want it for starting. Lower down for best running once the engine starts.
 
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The larger battery post is the positive post. A long slow charge is much better for the battery than a fast high amp charge.

Also, before cranking the engine, make sure the spark lever is full UP, so you aren't cranking with an advanced spark, as that will kick back against the starter, and may bend the Bendix spring, or break the Bendix.
 
Assuming all your other ducks are in a row, (Spark advance, gas turned on, Ign. Key on) Let's make sure you're plugs are getting current before we start replacing anything. First, clean the points, then with them open and the key on, see if there's any current getting to them. You can use a clip lead the movable arm of the points and "spark" it against rigid base. It should spark. If it doesn't, that can be a bad pig tail in the distributor (Pigtail is the term commonly used for a short little wire) It may be shorted, it's not uncommon. It would probably help if you have a Ohmmeter. We use them quite a bit for checking continuity of circuits. Let us know how your doing! About the gas. As you probably know, Mod A s have no fuel pumps and are a gravity feed system. Sounds a little primitive I know. But it works fine, even on hills. The problems are usually rust in the tank, which clogs the whole system. The best thing is too drain every bit of gas out and put a gallon of fresh gas into the system. Again get back too us when that's complete and still not starting.
Terry
 
UPDATE.....

1. Charged the battery (it was low).
2. Clean, Bright and Tight all connections....
3. New plugs
4. Installed battery.....turned the key....one pull on the choke.....FIRED RIGHT UP!!!

THANKS to everyone who led me down the right path. I am new to this vehicle and can see she will be fun.
 
Congrats on getting it going!
I checked out your photo album. Looks like a fun truck! Hope you and the Model A have many happy adventures together.:). Jeff
 
You didn't harm the motor by reversing the connections. This is a DC motor and when you reversed the connections you reversed the rotation of the starter which prevented the bendix from engaging with the ring gear.
I would rebuild the motor and as thread #20 indicates use extra havey gauge cables. This will minimize electrical resistance between the battery and motor and allows the starter motor to operate at peak power. Make sure you have a good battery and the starter switch is in good working order. Remove any pitted areas from the switch contact surface on the motor.
 
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