Starter . . . Rebuild or Rebuilt?

DannL

DannL

Senior Member
Looks like it had plenty of moisture at one time. Sometimes it works . . . and somtimes she don't.
 

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It will probably clean up . The model A starter has two carbon ground brushes that connect with a screw and should be no problem . The other two brushes are metal , like bronze or brass . The metal brushes last a long time and often are best left alone . Compare the brushes in the starter with the new brushes for the amount of wear before attempting to replace them . The metal brushes connect to the field coils and wires will have to be cut and spliced . It gets very close and if the wires get stretched when trying to solder the brush wires , it will be difficult to get the brush wires back in place so as not to contact the armature . The rear bushing will show the most wear because it is on the drive end . Model A starters are very robust .
 
Thanks. It took an impact screwdriver to loosen the coil screws. Never had the need for one till now. What a bear. Was ready to drill them out when they started to turn. Will try replacing coils, brushes, and contact button. Should do the job . . . we hope.
 
I rebuilt mine. Handfuls of rust and mud dauber nests came out when I took it apart. I finally had to heat a couple of the screws in the fields to get them loose. Penetrant and heat over a couple days. I cleaned everything up, replaced brushes and insulators. New bushings. Cleaned field coils and gave them a few coats of electrical insulating varnish, new bendix spring and bolts. New switch and works like new.
 
The screws holding the field cores in are notoriously difficult to remove and the longer it is since they were last out, the more difficult they are.
 
Some old generator shops have a special machine that takes out, and replaces the field screws.
 
I learned my lesson with those screws. If you hit the impact screwdriver too hard the downward thrust defeats the spin. Spent about an hour learning that. Now I can beat the tar out out anything and get results.
 
I have my starter apart and planned to replace the brushes, new ones on order. The existing ones look like they all are the same material, I'll see what the new ones look like. The brushes connected to the coils look like the leads are crimped on with the thick flat coil lead end curled around for the crimp. Is it actually soldered inside the curl and not fully crimped? I'm very happy to reuse those brushes, there is 1/4"+ showing below the brush holder. The Les Andrews book doesn't address the soldering, unfortunately.

Purdy Swoft said:
The metal brushes last a long time and often are best left alone . Compare the brushes in the starter with the new brushes for the amount of wear before attempting to replace them . The metal brushes connect to the field coils and wires will have to be cut and spliced .
Click to expand...
 
Best to try using the insulated brushes as is. You need a micro torch or a high wattage iron to remove and replace them. Clean the 4 brushes and brush holders with solvent, use a curved pick to pull the brush springs out of the holder and move to the side, insert brushes, make sure they move freely in the holders. move the springs back on the brushes, don't pinch the wires. Oil the bushings and you should be good to go.
 
Finished my starter shortly after making the initial post. Replaced just about everything. Coils, brushes, button, and switch. Very pleased with the results.
 

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I found what was slowing my starter; the cable from the battery measured smaller than a #4 under the insulation! :eek:

A new 1 gauge cable lets it spin like a champ. The extra resistance of my 6:1 head was the straw that broke the camel's back for spinning fast enough.
 
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