Starter problems

Hi Guys.......... The Model A fairy must have showed up last night. My buddy came over this morning, and before we started to pull the starter off for the umtenith time. He said try starting it again before we pull it off. I said Ok knowing it wouldn't work and the sucker fired up like a brand new Model A..... Go figure. So we had a nice cup of coffee and conversation and I'm going to go out for a cruise along the Ocean. Thanks everybody for the moral support.
 
fastroadster said:
Hi Guys.......... The Model A fairy must have showed up last night. My buddy came over this morning, and before we started to pull the starter off for the umtenith time. He said try starting it again before we pull it off. I said Ok knowing it wouldn't work and the sucker fired up like a brand new Model A..... Go figure. So we had a nice cup of coffee and conversation and I'm going to go out for a cruise along the Ocean. Thanks everybody for the moral support.
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Does the Model A fairy guarantee quality and dependability of the repair?
 
Keep an eye on things, this could be a new concept for the auto makers;
self repairing cars. I wonder if that concept could be patented?
 
Three things to check and report back, is the engine free? Turn over by hand. Your ring gear in the correct position in relation to the flywheel > Not pulled forward. Post a photo of the bendex, is it possibly the new style that has a full shroud around the spring, I'v found they don't fit correctly and don't allow enough free space for the clearance to the ring gear. Does the starter motor when tested out of the engine? have you installed the foot switch correctly? Report back FRANK PKNY
 
Hi Frank, yes engine was free, hand crank, ring gear in position. Bendix is one of the new style which I just replaced. Starter worked great off car, but as soon as I bolted it up to engine it would do NOTHING. I rocked in back and fourth in gear. Rebuilt foot switch, looked like new one I got done.... but went ahead and replaced it as well as fuse holder? The fairy came through...... I don't know
 
Could be a crappy ground - how much rust and or paint do you have between starter case and flywheel housing?

I can guarantee this problem will come back if it magically started working. Electrical problems hardly ever fix themselves for the long road. Better update your AAA card :P
 
I still believe it is your starter switch. To check, take off the switch and jump directly to the copper button. If the starter engages, it is the switch. Use the cable coming from your car battery. That way you are checking two things, cable and switch.
 
SeaSlugs said:
Could be a crappy ground - how much rust and or paint do you have between starter case and flywheel housing?

I can guarantee this problem will come back if it magically started working. Electrical problems hardly ever fix themselves for the long road. Better update your AAA card :P
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Agree with everything you said. I’m thinking ground.
 
fastroadster said:
OK, will check all grounds. The starter switch is new, I "rebuilt" old switch... don't think that was ever the problem
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I think most will be fine. I’d just look at what fordfixer says, the mount flange of starter and bell house. It was workin fine before right.
 
Did you check the starter for rotation with the onboard battery or with a different battery. Did you load test the battery? What type of post connectors do you have on your cables? You can perform a load test on the system with all parts assembled. Starter amperage draw can also be checked with the system assembled.
 
I still think you may have a bad connection at the battery. On several occasions, I've had a no start condition, where the battery cable is nice and tight to the post, but not making a good enough electrical contact to run the starter. So, other electrical things work, but press the starter and nothing happens. I've tried wiggling the battery cables, and they seem very tight when this occurred. I'd pull the cables off the battery, clean both the battery terminals and cable ends, and reinstall them. There is an excellent chance this will fix your problem for good. (At least until the next corrosion episode.). Oh, and this can also occurred at the other end of the battery cables, but is usually at the battery.

Whatever, it's all good...

PS. Last week Elvira's starter failed to work, and I found the brushes were too tight in the brush holders, and we're binding up. After they wore down to a certain point, they lost contact with the armature, so the starter would not run. I ground a tiny bit off the sides of the brushes so they slide easily, and now all is well. Probably a bad batch of brushes had been installed at some point, slightly oversized.
 
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The model a doesn't have a great ground path from battery to engine block. The factory splash pans were a engine to frame ground connection and since most are missing it goes thru the front engine mount, armored cable, spark advance rods, driveshaft, brake rods pedals, etc. Rear mounts and bolts are technically isolated in rubber.

Best to add a braided wire from engine to frame rail. People use one of the trans to flywheel housing bolts as a good solid connection to the engine. I used 2 smaller cables from old splash pan mount holes to both sides of the oil pan bolts. (one braided wire on drivers, one on pass) blends right in in plain sight and 99% of the public would never suspect a thing.

Loose or poor grounds cause weird stuff to happen. Poor grounds also will allow some amperage to flow (like headlights brakelights etc) but cannot pass the high amp draw of a stater. Loose battery connections are notorious for behaving like this especially on modern cars. bright lights radio turn key to run all the xmas lights come on go to start and absolutely nothing. release key all comes back.

yes what Corley said is also true. Also the cables can get corroded inside the crimp on either end but typically battery end (best to have crimped AND soldered battery connections) so the act of removing the cable or attempting to wiggle it can make just enough connection again to start.
 
On a non - Model A vehicle I had a post that was broken loose inside the battery. When shaking the cable clamp to remove I noticed that the terminal rotated and there was no contact. However, in a certain positions it made acceptable contact for use.

John
 
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