Starter not working

And REMEMBER, if screws are too LONG, most terminal pliers have a facility to cut standard sized screws.
Bill Shorten

And those work surprising well.
Just be sure to install the screw from the correct side of the tool. Always install the screw from the thread side of the crimper/stripper, so when the end threads are sheared the screw's thread is restored by unscrewing it back through the tool's thread.
 
Thanks for all the great suggestions! I will try those and report back y'all are a great wealth of knowledge ... Also I will try to post a picture of the contact on top of the starter
 
Also make sure the 4 switch mounting screws aren't too long and grounding the field coils. If you use the fuse that mounts to the switch, I think it comes with two screws a little longer to mount the fuse, and they may be in the wrong holes. I don't use a fuse, so if I'm wrong about the 2 mounting screws being a little longer feel free to tell me I'm wrong about that.

Curious. Why don't you use a fuse?:confused:
 
Curious. Why don't you use a fuse?:confused:

I like to keep the car as original as possible within reason, and I think by using good original wiring parts I'll avoid a short. I do leave my battery cables hand tight in case I should need to lift one off quickly.
 
I took the starter switch off. With the motor bolted up and touched negative cable to contact on starter could hear motor trying but wouldnt turn motor over. Then tried again with switch on the moto and manually using the switch without the pedal rod attatched ...same result. Took the motor off and tried the same tests on the bench. Motors with or without the switch attatched using my battery or a charger on 6v. Guess the motor is too weak to turn the motor? Also when bench testing I used positive ground with the battery and charger so polarity shouldn't be a problem.
Any further suggestions or should I look into a rebuild? Thanks again
 
Appears "mounted" starter may not have a good enough ground coming from the battery "through" both the frame and engine.

Flywheel housing, starter flange & engine mounts possibly insulating your ground with a coat of paint.

Try "direct" grounding starter after installing same and or reading ohms on an analog multi-meter.
 
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"The last two (2) new starter switches I bought from (2) different "reliable" parts places were beautiful ........... but ............. horribly and incorrectly made by "Vintique".

Appears some drunk made both of them after drinking 1-1/2 bottles of whiskey, next putting on a dark glazed welding helmet, and made both of my starter switches at midnight with the Vintique Shop lights turned off."

HL, Your description painted a beautiful picture. Since they are made in China, I see this poor Chinese fellow trying to weld up starter switches after hours with a real jag on and working in the dark. Really made me laugh. I needed that, Thanks for keeping the fun in Ford Barn.
 
Then it sounds like maybe the 3 starter bolts are too long and hitting the flywheel possibly. Did it work before with the bolts you have?

Jerry
 
Hi JM:

FWIW: Battery Test With No Battery Testing Equipment ?

Many would try to crucify others for recommending this ...... however, as a last resort:

a. This unresolved problem has been going on for (3) days now where none of us can "see" what you have and do not have.

b. We have no idea how you are testing your battery or ground .... we have no idea if you have battery testing equipment ..... if just one (1) of your three (3) 6V battery cells are bad, your 6V battery is weak enough to where it will not rotate an installed, assembled Model A engine.

c. If starter mounting bolts are not too long as you reported, and you have no battery testing available, just connect a set of battery (+) & (-) cables to a modern 12V vehicle battery's (+) and (-) post ................. connect the other (+) end to your Model A head stud bolt, and lightly touch the top button on top of your starter with the (-) end of the battery cable and reports what happens.

d. If the 12V battery cranks the engine, and the 6V battery cannot, trying to start your Model A with this same 6V battery makes about as much sense as trying to inflate your (4) Model A tires by rubbing them with powdered Viagra.

Hope this helps to find your starter problem.
 
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Hi JM:

FWIW: Battery Test With No Battery Testing Equipment ?

Many would try to crucify others for recommending this ...... however, as a last resort:

a. This unresolved problem has been going on for (3) days now where none of us can "see" what you have and do not have.

b. We have no idea how you are testing your battery or ground .... we have no idea if you have battery testing equipment ..... if just one (1) of your three (3) 6V battery cells are bad, your 6V battery is weak enough to where it will not rotate an installed, assembled Model A engine.

c. If starter mounting bolts are not too long as you reported, and you have no battery testing available, just connect a set of battery (+) & (-) cables to a modern 12V vehicle battery's (+) and (-) post ................. connect the other (+) end to your Model A head stud bolt, and lightly touch the top button on top of your starter with the (-) end of the battery cable and reports what happens.

d. If the 12V battery cranks the engine, and the 6V battery cannot, trying to start your Model A with this same 6V battery makes about as much sense as trying to inflate your (4) Model A tires by rubbing them with powdered Viagra.

Hope this helps to find your starter problem.

The barn is heating up:eek:
 
Hi JM,

All good suggestions above.

The last two (2) new starter switches I bought from (2) different "reliable" parts places were beautiful ........... but ............. horribly and incorrectly made by "Vintique".

Appears some drunk made both of them after drinking 1-1/2 bottles of whiskey, next putting on a dark glazed welding helmet, and made both of my starter switches at midnight with the Vintique Shop lights turned off.

The angle of the cylindrical plungers were both incorrect and the plungers were binding in the top metal opening of the starter switch body; hence the angle of the starter rod exiting the floor board was not aligned with the angle of the plunger which caused the plunger to bind.

If your starter is installed and well grounded, and if your starter turns rapidly when you touch the starter's top button with your batter cable ...... but ....... when the starter switch is installed, and the rod is depressed, the starter does not work, your flat metal strip inside the starter switch may not be touching the starter button.

Because you cannot "see" what is happening "inside" your starter switch, maybe try this:

1. Mix a dab of axle grease with alkyd, oil base, or latex paint of any color until this mixture is opaque; i.e, a very thin coat will not be almost invisible and transparent like grease; but, also will not dry rapidly like paint.

2. Place a thin coat of this mixture on top of your starter button; install your starter switch, depress your starter plunger, remove your starter switch, and verify if your flat metal strip inside your switch has made a good "solid" contact with this grease/paint mixture on top of your "flat" starter button.

3. If not, get a round file and rework the plunger opening in the top of the starter switch so the plunger does not bind at "any" up & down location..

4. Worked for me ..... just had to show that midnight shift drunk that his misalignment work can be corrected!
This is exactly what I've been messing with for a week now. New switch from Vintique. The rod is not aligned properly and the contact length is different. The solution for me was to cut the Ford rod and weld in a piece 1" long. This should solve the problem. I'll know for sure tomorrow.
 
While the starter is out be sure to check for a worn bushing on the drive end. Grab the shaft and move it up and down to check for radial clearance. If you can feel clearance, then it's worn out and the drive end bushing should be replaced. Once you get play in the bushing the armature can rub on the field coils.

Without being there with am ammeter and volt meter, this is a guessing game.
 
Hi captndan,

The top body on my original starter switch was very pitted and rusty; but it was well aligned and functioned well with the proper angle of the original push rod coming out of the floor board.

To correct the drunk's improper Vintique starter switch rod angle:

1. I installed the starter, then I installed my original rusty starter switch on the starter.

2. With a piece of cardboard, and with the horizontal bottom piece of cardboard placed on the starter, I used a pencil to draw the angle of the original starter plunger on the cardboard with respect to the horizontal top of the starter.

3. Then when the drunk's Vintique starter switch was placed on the starter, (while looking at the drawing on the cardboard), I could see that the Vintique starter switch plunger angle was incorrect and why it would hang up when pushed down while being connected to the original starter push rod.

4. I used a round file to remove metal from the around the drunk's Vintique starter switch plunger hole in the starter switch body to make the drunk's Vintique starter switch function properly.

5. Had the Vintique drunk been in my shop, (with or without his dark welding helmet), I would have used that round file to ream something else ...... and not just the Vintique plunger hole. LOL

Hope this helps someone buying a new Model A starter switch.
 
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Weird Experiences: Why do folks express different opinions?

1. The year was 1969 ..... my Model a had not run in 3 years, so I went to Shell Service Station to buy a new 6V battery.

2. Engine would not turn over with "new" 6V battery; so I told my Mechanic Uncle, (born 1905), that I would rebuild the starter on my Model A that he gave to me in 1960.

3. He told me my "new" battery was no good and my starter was fine because he rebuilt it in about 1946 ............... hmmmmmm ...... I thought?

4. I left to get some tools & upon return he was not there .... but ..... I found a note on my windshield which read ..... "DEAD BATTERY".

5. Just to show he was wrong, I brought the battery back to the Shell Station where the owner tested this new battery with a hydrometer ....... the middle cell was toast .... got another new 6V battery and Model A started.

6. FWIW: Moral of the story ....... "new" can sometimes translate into "defective."
 
Weird Experiences: Why do folks express different opinions?

1. The year was 1969 ..... my Model a had not run in 3 years, so I went to Shell Service Station to buy a new 6V battery.

2. Engine would not turn over with "new" 6V battery; so I told my Mechanic Uncle, (born 1905), that I would rebuild the starter on my Model A that he gave to me in 1960.

3. He told me my "new" battery was no good and my starter was fine because he rebuilt it in about 1946 ............... hmmmmmm ...... I thought?

4. I left to get some tools & upon return he was not there .... but ..... I found a note on my windshield which read ..... "DEAD BATTERY".

5. Just to show he was wrong, I brought the battery back to the Shell Station where the owner tested this new battery with a hydrometer ....... the middle cell was toast .... got another new 6V battery and Model A started.

6. FWIW: Moral of the story ....... "new" can sometimes translate into "defective."

You got that right Henry,,,we eat **** every week...:mad:
 
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