Starter motor fuse?

shaefer

shaefer

Member
The link is to an image of a '30 with some sort of fuse on the starter motor. http://www.wallpaperup.com/141958/1930_Ford_Model-A_5-window_Coupe_45B_retro_engine_r.html

My question is what does this fuse do?

My hope is that it cuts out the starter in the event that the starter gets stuck ON...as happened to me recently for the first time in over 15 years.

Here was my issue...and it's good because I learned something new! I had a battery issue that forced me to change it out and tinker around a bit with the connections to clean everything up. When I hooked it all back up I noticed that the starter "button" (the foot button...sorry for not knowing the real name) seemed stuck....I couldn't move it.

I fiddled around a bit and then it came to life...AND WOULDN'T STOP! The starter was just spinning and spinning! Thank goodness I had the fuel off and was able to get the battery unhooked.

I took apart the mechanism on top of the starter (that the "button" goes into) and it was full of junk.

It's now totally cleaned up and I know all about how that works. But I am wondering if there is some kind of fuse I could install so that in the event this happens again I can just pull a fuse and not burn up my starter.

Any suggestions?

I am about to completely replace the wiring harness (that will be another thread) so this would be a good time to tackle such a thing if it exists.

Thanks!
 
The fuse on the starter is placed there just 'cause it's a convenient place. It protects everything EXCEPT the starter.
 
It is not practical to fuse the starter. However, if you head to your local West Marine store, there you will find fuses for hundreds of amps that have the same size hole in the tab ends as on your starter lug. Simply use a bolt on the other end for your battery cable.
 
CarlG said:
The fuse on the starter is placed there just 'cause it's a convenient place. It protects everything EXCEPT the starter.
Click to expand...


Actually, it is in circuit between the battery and the generator. It doesn't really protect anything except the wiring from complete meltdown if something shorts. The generator will be toast, but at least the wiring will usually survive.

Fuses for each thing is best. I fused the lights on one, horn on another, etc.
 
A properly rated fuse wont blow just because the starter is spinning. The best solution is to put a battery disconnect in a convenient place. If its not a show car you can place it close to the battery and then kill all electric current in every system. If you hide the switch it works as a theft deterrent as well. Any good marine store will have battery disconnects in all shapes and sizes.
 
This may help.
 

Attachments

  • Model A wiring w fuse.jpg
    Model A wiring w fuse.jpg
    97.5 KB · Views: 105
Ahh, okay. I am definitely going to fuse basically everything this time around. I really like the idea of a basic manual battery disconnect.

I think that one issue has just made me a tad anxious about if the same issue ever happened again and I like the idea of leaving the battery on a tender while having the rest of the electrics "unhooked".

Thanks!
 
A battery disconnect switch is money well spent. Put it in the cab under your feet for quick access. I just bought one from Bratton's and it was about $25
 
As I understand the function of the kill switch, it will disconnect the current of the battery to the starter and to the rest of the electrical system if the car is not running. If the car is running the kill switch will not stop the car because it will be drawing it's current from the generator. In such a case the ignition will have to be switched off, however if the ignition switch is the problem some other method to stop the engine will need to be used.
 
A battery disconnect will allow you to sleep at nite knowing there is no power to anything that will short out .

If your starter switch sticks you can stop it without damage most times .
 
Hicktick said:
A battery disconnect will allow you to sleep at nite knowing there is no power to anything that will short out .

If your starter switch sticks you can stop it without damage most times .
Click to expand...

Both of my cars & I sleep very well every night & with NONE of the above on the cars..The car I just sold was the same way it came from Ford with the ORIGINAL wires, also no problem with it.. If wires are done correct "NOTHING ADDED" much less a chance of a problem.. Still nice to do a little service check every now & then...Its called P.M...
 
Would the best location in the circuit for the kill switch for a 6v positive ground be between the battery and starter? Would it make any sense to use both the fuse and kill switch?
 
rscardina said:
Would the best location in the circuit for the kill switch for a 6v positive ground be between the battery and starter?


It it the easiest.

Would it make any sense to use both the fuse and kill switch?

Why not? kill switch when you park and fuse protection when driving.
Click to expand...

I just use a fuse
 
Kill switches are fine, just do not switch them off when the car is running, you can get a "no load condition" on the generator, which can make a mess. I have seen this occur in older fire trucks some years back, it tends to get expensive real fast.
 
rscardina said:
Would the best location in the circuit for the kill switch for a 6v positive ground be between the battery and starter? Would it make any sense to use both the fuse and kill switch?
Click to expand...

They each serve a different purpose, so install both if you want. I would install the master switch in the ground line of the battery.

I don't use either myself.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top