Starter Lock up

Several weeks ago I tried to start my 39 P/U and it wouldn't turn over. It had been sitting 2 years. I checked the oil, no water. Removed the radiator cap and it still had slight pressure in it after 2 years and was filled up to the neck so I was sure no water got in it. Put it in gear and rocked it and it didn't turn at all. Thinking stuck valves I sprayed a pint of MMO in the cylinders and down the carb and over the next 2 weeks kept rocking it every few days, still no movement. Pushed it in on the lift yesterday and tried to remove the starter. Got the cable off and the through bolts out and it wouldn't come off and NO bad brushes wouldn't cause this problem. It just wouldn't run or have very little power if the brushes were bad. I tried to turn the engine with a power bar and deep socket on the crankshaft nut. It tightened about 1/8 th turn on the thread and it wouldn't rock 1 thousanths in either direction. I got a brass punch and big hammer and tried to break the aluminum spacer on the back loose but no go. Drove a thin carbon scraper in between the aluminum ring and the metal ring on the pan. still stuck. Drove a couple screw drivers in at about 10 and 8 o'clock with enough gap from the scraper at 9 o'clock and still won't come loose. Drove 2 large screw drivers in as close to the top and bottom as I could get them and pried on them and it poped out. The end hex bolt with the extended end that go's in to the shaft was 2 hexes on the lock washer loose and was a little loose on the shaft. Turned the power bar on the crankshaft and was as loose as a goose. Turned it over with the started to blow out the MMO but non came out it all must have soaked down in the rings good. I had put rags over the plug holes so the MMO wouldn't blow all over the place but non came out. If I didn't put the rags on I probly would have had a mess. Sprayed some starter fluid down the carb and it lite right off. Ran a little hesitant when the pedal was pushed and figured the the old gas sitting in 115 degrees over 2 summers wasn't to good. Added 5 gallons of high octane fuel and it improved 50%. May have to clean the carb. I may drive it a little first. This truck has a shrowd and 6 blade industrial fan I adapted the generator and blows a strong air pattern back past the carb and fuel pump. I want to see how the pump heat looks on this one. This is the one that ran at a fast idle for over 2 hours on a 100 degree day in 2004 and never got to 180. I never noticed any fuel problem but it was probly before this new gas. Gas gauge not working so I will pull that out tomorrow and clean it or replace the float. G.M.
 
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These old Fords have had this quirk for probably 90 years.
I have a couple Ts that do it once in a while.
I know I've been messing with 'em for 55 years.
You just put it in high gear with the key off and rock it back and forth.
It'll break loose...no big deal.
Same thing as the exhaust popping when going down a hill.
It's just part of the aura of these old cars!
 
I had the same problem trying to get the starter out as you did. That little bugger just did want to come out. It took two large screw drivers and a hammer to get it out.

Thats kinda what I figured Bob. Ya play with these old cars you gotta work on these old problems. It just go's with the program. LOL
 
It could be any or all of what all the guys are suggesting. It's all excellent advise. That's why I enjoy this site. Even if I didn't have an old Ford (Mercury) I'd check this out every night. I love all the information our colleagues have. In addition, while your at it, check out the bushings. If there is any or enough wear, the shaft will "****" and the gears will lock up. Eventually with enough wear, the starter will burn up because the armature will contact the fields and short out. You probably already know this but Sometimes we forget to check the simple things. OMO.

Rich O.
 
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