Starter issues

rer_239

rer_239

Senior Member
I'm on my phone and can't search. The strap inside the start switch on the starter "welds " itself to the contact on the starter. Maybe I'm pushing on the starter rod too long. If I just touch the starter rod will the bendiix engage the flywheel long enough to start the engine, which I assume will revs fast enough to disengage the bendix
 
It sounds like you may have a bigger issue causing the welding. Sounds like your starter is pulling too much current and causing the problem. Is your engine freshly rebuilt possibly causing the starter to pull more power? Do you have good clean ground connections? Does your starter sound like it is straining or dragging? If you don't have a new engine, I would pull the starter and bench test it and check for tight spots when you turn it.
 
Low voltage and weak battery can be the cause, weak tension on the strap, it should be a hard spring type of brass , there are cheap ones that may not have the proper metal or thickness, and what is the condition of the contact post on the starter, sometimes they need to be filed some —- but not all the pitting has to be removed always.
 
Things like paint on the faying surfaces and crusty bolts can reduce the ground path for the circuit. Worn brushes and bearings can be a real drag on performance. The switch can also have problems. The early switches had a better return spring system but Ford only made them for a short time. The common switch can wear the little cross shaped insulated actuator piece and lose tension on the copper strap/spring.
 
A while back I had a similar problem to yours when using a reproduction switch. I used dielectric grease on the starter switch post and copper strap and that seemed to help, but I try not to use reproduction switches. The copper straps on the reproduction starter switches are not made of the same quality materials as the original equipment switches and do not have the same resiliency and resistance to distortion making them easy to fatigue the strap and potentially stick to the copper post. I think you're better off at least using a genuine Ford switch, if possible.

FYI - Bob Bidonde here on the forum once pointed out that the original copper straps were made of Beryllium copper which gives them more flexibility and ability to rebound.
 
All of the above comments are good. Use the electrical grease with the copper in it, available from McMaster Carr. Some people have had good luck putting some low durometer rubber in the switch to help it return. Although the better solution is a better switch.
 
I saw a tip isn the Restorer Magazine where a small piece of hose was inserted in the switch to act as a spring to separate the contacts.

I have not tried this, just passing along.
 
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