Starter Issue

Chuck Dempsey

Chuck Dempsey

Well-known member
My starter has suddenly stopped working. No 'burnt out electrical motor' smell, it just stopped. I've tried taking the switch off the top of the starter and touching the battery cable directly to the 'contact' - nothing. I've now taken the starter off the car and, using battery cables, ground the POSITIVE to the starter, and touched the NEGATIVE to the 'contact' on the starter - still nothing. Should that approach work if the starter was still viable? Any other ideas on what I should try? Starter was rebuilt last year buy the company MAC's uses, I forget their name.....


Thanks!
 
I'm sure the battery is good. With the starter off the car, seems like I should get SOMETHING using the battery cable approach.....
 
12 volt battery and jumper cables is how I’ve tested starters! Return the starter for warranty or look inside your starter for a problem.
 
I wouldn't spend a lot of time doing any more than what you've already done. It's shot. Exchange it for a rebuilt starter and get your car going again. All the good vendors have them, and ship them quickly.
 
With power applied, tap the starter on the brush end with a rubber hammer.

If it starts, I would venture the brushes are worn down and only making contact when the hammer blow gets them touching the commutator! That fix involves disassembling the starter. Others have suggested replacing it and that is a choice. Replacing brushes is kind of a mess but is cheaper! You can always put the unworking starter back together and then exchange for a rebuilt.
 
OK, thanks all. I just had it rebuild last September, and have only cranked the car maybe 20 times since. I'm trying to find any paperwork from the transaction, to dig up the firm that did the work. ….Hoping there is a warranty.
 
I would return it to the rebuild shop and at least get an assessment of the problem before investing in a replacement.
 
Mr Flamingo - Yes, it turns with no problem. No grinding sound, either. I tried a 12 volt battery on it with no luck. I shot an email to Ecklers to see what, if any, warranty they have on it. It was rebuild in September of last year. Not getting my hopes up.... A local fellow fixed my alternator last year, so I may end up taking it over to him to look at.
 
For a sudden, dramatic "no longer works" starter problem like this, I'd bet the terminal post connection to the field coils has come unsoldered or shorted out. That would produce a no-electricity to the armature issue, as you are experiencing. Take it to a local mom and pop small motor/electrical repair shop and pay them $5.00 to troubleshoot the starter. They can tell you instantly if my hunch is correct. 'Sure would be cheaper and less hassle for everyone from Eckler's to you just to have a simple problem like this fixed on your end and then be re-imbursed by Eckler. They won't want the darned thing shipped back to them just to resolder the connection! Ask them if they'd go for that. If it turns out to be something more serious inside (but without smoke or that telltale electrical fried smell???), THEN you can invoke the full warranty clause and send the starter back to them. The shipping company will LOVE another two-way shipment of a heavy item like a starter. They're the only ones who will win. :)
Marshall
 
Another suggestion: check that the brush that is soldered in place is still soldered in place. The other brushes can be removed by taking out the slot head bolts. But the third one is soldered to the field coils. If that breaks loose, the symptoms you are experiencing will happen. I am a lousy solderer, so I just had three starters repaired locally by a professional, who soldered in new brushes. It takes a lot of heat to solder it correctly, much more than the average do-it-yourself solder gun typically found in most of our garages. Perhaps the brush leads weren't fluxed properly during rebuild? Who knows? Check it anyway by removing the band and pulling on the strands. There should be some resistance.
Marshall
 
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With the starter out of the car, no power on it, using an ohm meter as a continuity checker, on lowest range, start checking point to point between ground and from the starter post on into the starter and then the field windings and then the brushes. When the meter goes to 0, move back a bit and start isolating. Some place that starter is open. In fact, start by checking the starter post to the field! may be a bad solder job by the rebuilder.
 
I'd like to give a SHOUT OUT to Vic at PV Antique and Classic Ford of Tewksbury, MA. I got with Mac's about my starter not working, and they directed my to PV, who did the actual work. I discussed my issue with Vic over the phone and he told me to ship it back. They would fix any issue caused by them, and work 'at cost' to fix anything else. It did turn out to be a 'soldering' issue (like Marshall suggested above), which Vic fixed for free. I haven't re-installed the unit yet, but you can't beat SERVICE like I got from them. Thanks Vic.....
 
I had a similar problem a few years back. With help from Tom Wesenberg, it was found that the problem was an unlubricated Bendix gear. The starter was working fine and then completely stop working. There is a small hole in the gear part of the Bendix that needs oil. The gear was stuck. After cleaning out the hole a little and putting a couple drops of oil in the hole the starter started working. I doubt many people lub the Bendix gear ever, which could be a problem.
Rusty Nelson
 
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