Starter Drive

29er

29er

Senior Member
I'm going to replace the "modern" starter drive with the original-type on my '29 coupe and have a few questions:

(1) Do any of the vendors make one that's better than the others? The one I recently purchased was manufactured in India.

(2) How tight should the bendix spring bolts be on the shaft? The Service Bulletins just say "tight".

(3) Many of the vendors sell what some call "shims" and other call gaskets that fit between the starter and the flywheel housing. The Service Bulletins say to leave this off. Any thoughts?

(4) Other tips are welcomed!

Many thanks..
 
The bolt with the pin tip goes in the very end of the shaft. Make the bolts good and hand tight, then bend the locking tab tight to the flat side. The other washer tab fits into the gap in the spring loop. I've never had a problem with an original Bendix drive. Be sure the tiny pin and spring by the pinion are free and have a drop of oil on them.
 
29er said:
...Many of the vendors sell what some call "shims" and other call gaskets that fit between the starter and the flywheel housing. The Service Bulletins say to leave this off. Any thoughts?....
Click to expand...
The Service Bulletin for April (1928?) (page 238 if you have the same edition as me ) explains the necessary use of the shims on the early ( Abell ) starters. The September ('28) (page 284)introduces the "New Service Starting Unit" and say "when installing do not place shims between starting motor and flywheel housing".
 
John B: Thanks! Of course I see now the reference to the early starters. I will leave off the gasket.

Mike
 
By the way, with the original starter drive, the occasional "ACCIDENTAL" starter drive "lock up", can be minimized by brushing the flywheel teeth with HEAVY wheel bearing grease.
Bill W.
 
Hi Bill:

Good thought. I thought of that too, but in another thread I talk about having to tap the ring gear back into place because it was banging on the flywheel housing when I depressed the clutch pedal. In that thread, Tom Endy suggested the new ring gears don't fit onto the flywheel properly and are loose frequently enough that they need to be pinned to the flywheel.

Soooo, I'm thinking too much grease on the ring gear may eventually seep between the already-loose ring gear and flywheel and make the situation even worse. Maybe, as you say, HEAVY wheel bearing grease won't migrate between the gear and the flywheel (?). Maybe just brushing the pinion gear on the starter drive?

In that thread, someone suggested using penetrating Loctite 290 between the flywheel and ring gear to help hold them together. I'll try that.

Thanks for your thoughts.

By the way, how's the drought situation down your way?


Mike in Oregon
 
29er said:
Hi Bill:

Good thought. I thought of that too, but in another thread I talk about having to tap the ring gear back into place because it was banging on the flywheel housing when I depressed the clutch pedal. In that thread, Tom Endy suggested the new ring gears don't fit onto the flywheel properly and are loose frequently enough that they need to be pinned to the flywheel.

Soooo, I'm thinking too much grease on the ring gear may eventually seep between the already-loose ring gear and flywheel and make the situation even worse. Maybe, as you say, HEAVY wheel bearing grease won't migrate between the gear and the flywheel (?). Maybe just brushing the pinion gear on the starter drive?

In that thread, someone suggested using penetrating Loctite 290 between the flywheel and ring gear to help hold them together. I'll try that.

Thanks for your thoughts.

By the way, how's the drought situation down your way?


Mike in Oregon
Click to expand...
Mike,
I "think" centrifugal force would eliminate the chance for getting grease between the ring gear & the flywheel. Also, with grease on the teeth, IF it ever DID lock, it unlocks EASIER, when you rock the car, in gear.
We had a fair rain here recently, BUT not enough to do much.
Bill W.
 
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