Starter cuts out

AL in NY

AL in NY

Well-known member
Having a problem with my starting cutting out just as the engine is about to start. I have totally rebuilt the starter with new field coils and brand-new armature. The teeth on the flywheel and the bendix are good. The only item I haven't replaced is the bendix spring. But my thinking here is a newer/stronger spring is going to make the problem worse because it will pull the bendix gear away from the flywheel even sooner. The starter turns the engine over very slowly, can that be the problem. The starter is grounded directly back to the battery and the battery is only a year old. What am I missing that will fix the problem.
 
Good question deserving a smarter answer....when last did you remove the ground cable, polishing the frame connection & bolt hole?
I know you know, '6 volt, tight & bright'.
 
jb-ob: had engine and trans out 4 months ago. Starter cable has star washer under nut. This problem has but occurring for years, finally decided to try and find the problem. I really doubt its a grounding problem unless it's inside the starter.
 
You say turns overs slowly? Did you try to ensure battery is good even tho its only year old? I had 3 batteries,showed good but once tried to start went dead. Went to new source NAPA. Do a battery load test at auto parts dealer. Even put charger on them good for about two turns dead- 4amps.. I'd start with the battery fully charged and checked out.
 
I had a battery last only one year...it was dry "antique" type with Ford stuff. On another note the timing being off will cause a "pause" as the engine wants to fire...similar to if you forgot to retard the the spark lever.

If it starts right up after being warmed up and charged...the battery probably is a suspect. Timing should not just change but as points wear the dwell does change and the timing can be off...timing isn't something that just disappears, but the point cam lobe wears, the points wear...or the the distributor wears. A dwell meter on the old gal can show if things are steady. Starting a Model A without the spark retarded will certainly cause a slow and dangerous turn of the motor...probably a backfire. Just my thoughts. Probably best to sell the car and buy a faster horse!
 
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Try a known good starter on loan from a fellow Model A guy and see if that solves the problem of the engine turning over slowly. If it does, you are back to a problem with your starter. Be sure to clean the metal where the starter meets the flywheel housing to get rid of paint build up, which can interfere with a good ground.
One other commonly overlooked cause of an engine turning over slowly is starter mounting bolts that are too long. The upper one is not a problem because it is above the flywheel. But the other two bolts if too long - even by a little - can rub against the flywheel and slow down the engine's revolutions. The bolts should only be 1" long with a lock washer. Check the bolt lengths and either replace with the correct length or add an extra lock washer to move the bolts away from the flywheel. This has fooled many an experienced Model A owner who took for granted that the starter bolts were the correct length. I also recall a story about a guy who answered an ad in the local paper about a Model A that was for sale. The owner had rebuilt the engine, but became disgusted because the engine wouldn't start. He gave up and offered the car for sale. The man answering the ad looked the car over, bought it for a very favorable price, asked for a couple shorter 3/8" bolts, installed them through the starter base and the engine instantly started. The seller was furious, but what could he do? The deal was done and the new owner drove away with the Model A.
Marshall
 
Parts can be bad right out of the box or fail prematurely

Watch your ammeter when you hit the starter and hook a multimeter to the battery to measure the voltage as you try to start it. If you're drawing too much amperage, it's a problem with the starter itself or an alignment issue. If the battery voltage drops too low during the test, the battery itself is bad. If it's not drawing much amperage and the battery voltage doesn't drop much, it's a wiring issue
 
Have a look at the headlights while cranking - they should dim but not go out completely. May give an indication of the health of your battery.
 
Measure the voltage at the terminal on the starter switch with respect to the switch housing (which should be a good ground at the starter motor) while trying to start the car. Assuming you have a 6 volt system, the voltage should not be below about 5 volts. If it is then there could be two things wrong: The battery could be bad or the starter is drawing too many amps. Take the battery to an automotive parts store to have it checked under load. If the battery is good then try turning the engine over with the hand crank to see if there is excessive resistance, which can be the case with a newly rebuilt engine. If the engine turns over easily then there is something wrong with the starter or the starter switch, or the electrical cables are too small.
 
nkaminar; engine has 25,000 miles on it. I had the engine and trans out to upgrade the F150 gearset to the "Goldilocks" gears. I'll check that voltage measurement and see what I get.
 
One thing that isn't always checked is the starter switch itself. Power and ground cables should be 2 AWG. Smaller gauge cable can be problematic. Grounding frame to engine or transmission for ground path is usually sufficient off the battery. The power cable is a short run to the starter switch so resistance should be minimal with 2 gauge cable.

6-volts doesn't turn starters very fast but it should spin well enough. I always check my new parts just like I check old ones. I never assume that new parts are good to go right out of the package. I learned that the hard way.
 
The first step is to check static battery voltage and then do a load test. If your battery shows to be 6 volts at full charge...it's as good as dead and should be replaced. Odd as it may sound, a good 6 volt battery should show a full charge at somewhere around 7 to 7.2 volts.
 
Does it spin faster with the clutch in? I am thinking there may be some drag in the ******. Unlikely, but still a possibility.

If everything checks out, you may have better luck with a modern Bendix drive. The vendors carry them.
 
Load test battery, check cables for high resistance, all connections clean and bright, as for the starter disengaging early check base timing or try a more retarded base timing setting
 
Guys, thanks for all the suggestions. I have yard work and power washing the house today and tomorrow, I will check things out as suggested and get back to you with my findings.
 
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