Stainless hardware?

Steve_S

Steve_S

Member
Just wondering if it's a bad idea to use stainless steel bolts on a '53 flathead for the manifold, water pumps, oil pan, etc?
 
A lot of the bolts on a flathead are not the same length as bolts that are readily available, but if you overcome that and use good anti-gall threadlube, should be no problem. ..B.
 
Just keep in mind that Stainless Bolts are not necessarily a good bolt for strength. For intake, pan and water pumps, they should be OK but for Flywheel, Head Bolts, Clutch Bolts etc, NO.

Just My Opinion!!!

Chris
 
As Chris above says...however, particularly that bottom water pump bolt that is located up the hose inlet. Brian
 
Thanks gents, I'll admit I was thinking mostly of looks, but the one inside the water pump seems like it's crying for stainless with a bunch of anti-seize on the threads.
 
Steve_S said:
Thanks gents, I'll admit I was thinking mostly of looks, but the one inside the water pump seems like it's crying for stainless with a bunch of anti-seize on the threads.
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In the "Old Days", most people would run only water in their radiators and may be Alcohol based (non-perminent) Anti-Freeze in the winter if necessary. Things got all rusted up and this bolt often was a bear to get out.

If you use a Grade 8 Bolt with gasket sealer on the threads, you probably will never have a problem because you will be using water treatment or Anti-Freeze in the cooling system. A Grade 8 Bolt also will not corrode nearly as bad as the bolts Ford originally used.

Chris
 
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Thanks, I may do that. I was thinking about it today and realized the weight of the engine sits on those water pumps. Maybe I'd rather have a "real" bolt in there than a stainless one.
 
Stainless is definitely out for exhaust manifold bolts. It expands and contracts at a different rate and has a tendency to loosen up due to the different expansion. I kept getting exhaust leaks and finally figured out it was the stainless bolts coming loose. Went to regular grade 5 bolts and problem solved.
 
Steve_S said:
Thanks, I may do that. I was thinking about it today and realized the weight of the engine sits on those water pumps. Maybe I'd rather have a "real" bolt in there than a stainless one.
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Stainless will work fine. There's only about 1/4 of the engines weight on those bolts. Just don't over torque them.
 
Well, looking into hardware kits I see that several companies offer stainless both kits, and water pump bolts are included. I guess my fears are indeed for nothing. I'll probably order a kit since it's easier than buying all the different sizes individually. They even offer them with an original type of head, not that stainless is original but what the heck.
 
You will be drilling them out later, I did this and they froze into the taps. You have to use never seize on them, you can not get a torque to spec that 100% holds on a bolt covered in never seize.I would use a dark cad coated grade 5 bolt.
 
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