Spring Spreader needed or NO ???

Flatkid8

Member
Im getting ready to swap out the front spring on my 46 and Ive heard some buzz about needing a spring spreader...is there any way around this or is it absolutley necessary? If its a must where do I get one or can I make "something" work? What is the best way to tackle this....drop the front suspension out and change the spring on the ground or can it stay in and the spring be swapped out with the axle and suspension remaing in the chassis?

The reason for the swap is the car is leaning hard to the left about 2" and i suspect a broken or bad spring...think im on the right track or barking up the wrong tree? All questions, comments, and concerns are appreciated


Thanks

Dennis
 
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Nope you don't need a spring spreader. Main leaf easily installed on its own and a long bolt to help locate subsequent leaves compressed with clamps and the bolt to save loosing face if it comes loose. When secured install the main locator bolt and the spring C clamps , the shackles will take up the rest . Make sure the center bolt locates in it's position and bolt up the u bolts and bottom plate.
 
On a 46 I'm sure you can just let the axle hang and undo the shackles. It's not like the earlier springs with there 45 degree angle shackles to control sway, on your 46 the shackles are straight up and down at rest and the panhard rod controls sway.
No need for a spreader.
Martin.
 
When I was young and stupid, that is, willing to take risks that could lead to serious injuries, I changed several Ford springs without the use of a spring spreader.
As I got older, and reputedly smarter, I remembered a spring spread that the Ford garage I worked at when I was in my mid teens. Having a need to remove the springs from under my '36, I searched through the cobb-webs of my brain for a plan as to how I could create a viable replica of the spring spreader the Ford garage had.
It did not take a lot of money or time to build the spreader I have, it works great and was constructed with materials that were for the most part laying around my garage/shop..
The surprising part of a spring spreader is that, contrary to common beliefs, the Ford springs do not require a lot of power to spread the spring the small amount, less than an inch that is required to relieve the tension there-in.
The first course of action is to jack the car up high enough to take the weight off of the spring, usually to where the tires are just barely touching the ground.
As a general rule there are two types of ends used on a spring spreader, One type is a blade/chisel end that engages the spring eye where the eye rolls into the main leaf. The second type has an end that is convex, to capture the spring eye with little chance of loosing contact with the "eye". This is the type of end I used on my spreader..
See attached pix..
 

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A spring spreader is not needed with the later year springs, see post #4. There is very little spring tension in the shackles on these years. Totally different than say a 36.
 
If you decide to not use a spring spreader, while you are in the disassembly process if you have any extra c clamps or c style vise grips just loosely attach those around the spring so to take the brunt of the force in case things go wrong !
 
No need to take the spring apart, no need for a spreader. It's not an early car it's a 46, the spring is not under tension like the early stuff.
Its about the same as removing a rear spring on a parallel spring setup, like a 49 up Ford.
Martin.
 
If you decide to not use a spring spreader, while you are in the disassembly process if you have any extra c clamps or c style vise grips just loosely attach those around the spring so to take the brunt of the force in case things go wrong !

There is nothing that is going to go wrong spring tension wise. This is no different than a later model rear parallel spring. No need for all the dire warning.

LOL looks like I posted the same basic thing as Martin!
 
Thanks fellas, I appreciate all the quick responses. I have a lift and plan to do this with the car up in the air and screw jacks supporting the axle unless anyone has advice otherwise.

Also as mentioned before the whole reason for doing this is because the car sets about 2" lower on the left side. All body mounts, frame, and everything else that would be an obvious culprit looks normal so would the spring be a likely suspect? Is the leaning to one side a common issue? It doesn't appear the car has ever been wrecked and the body lines all look good so I don't suspect it's from any kind of damage...any ideas?

Thanks

Dennis
 
Also my original spring that's in the car is wrapped in tin, the used replacement spring I'm putting in is supposedly out of a 46 as well but is not wrapped in tin. Is there any ryme or reason to the 2 different styles?

Thanks

Dennis
 
the only thing I can add to this thread is, be SURE to support the frame with jack stans, as the shackle bolts hold the whole weight of the front end of your 46.
 
Here's how I remove my shackles and disconnect my spring without a spring spreader. Although the pictures are rear axle, it works the same on the front. (Reverse of procedure is used to reconnect.)

First, jacked the car up and supported it on jack stands under the frame as shown.

I left the axle hanging on the shock absorber (it could also be supported by a floor jack) and lifted the end of the spring with a bottle jack just enough to take the pressure off of the shackle bolts. Nuts can be removed before or after placing the bottle jack.

IMG_4009.jpg


Then removed the shackle from one side.

IMG_4010.jpg


Then the other side. (Spring end did not budge a bit - held by the bottle jack.)

IMG_4011.jpg


Lowered the bottle jack and the spring slowly reached it's limit of where it wanted to bend to. No "boing" or nothin'.:)

IMG_4012.jpg
 
FWIW: Before doing all this work, try tightening the U-bolts That hold the spring to the chassis. One may be loose. Nothing to lose.
Paul in CT
 
FWIW: Before doing all this work, try tightening the U-bolts That hold the spring to the chassis. One may be loose. Nothing to lose.
Paul in CT

That's a damn good idea right there. Lots of these cars out there with no locking kind of fastener fitted. Should be castles and cotter pins, but nylock, pall nuts etc will work.
Martin.
 
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