Spring shackle replacement
- Thread starter oldford2
- Start date
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
John, are those bushings made of rubber? I believe the latest bushings made of Teflon or some other very tough plastic material work better than the older rubber bushings.
oldford2
Well-known member
John,
Yes I have seen the plastic ones and they may be more durable than the hard rubber ones. But I had the hard rubber replacements in my stash so used them. The ones I replaced may have been originals (50,000 miles). I will see if these last 50,000 miles and will report back then.
Should tighten up the front end a bit.
John
Yes I have seen the plastic ones and they may be more durable than the hard rubber ones. But I had the hard rubber replacements in my stash so used them. The ones I replaced may have been originals (50,000 miles). I will see if these last 50,000 miles and will report back then.
Should tighten up the front end a bit.John
Talkwrench
Well-known member
Front or back? A spring spreader is a must.. I have not done and original style shackle pin nor would I want to.. The guy who I borrow the spring speader from [a lot older than me and done it many times] grumbles and swears under his breath with the mention of the original pin type.. : o P
VeryTangled
Well-known member
Hi Everyone, I've had the pleasure of doing the fronts once and the backs twice. Shackle bushings are a lovely thing to practice your vocabulary on. You'll like the results.
We had to saws-all some of them out. Way too much fun!
-VT/Jeff
We had to saws-all some of them out. Way too much fun!
-VT/Jeff
Last edited:
Bubsyouruncle
Senior Member
For everybody out there who is column-loading stuff to make spring-spreaders, keep in mind Euler's statement which tells you that you will have buckling of your column at 40 times your minimum dimension. That says that your 3/4 all-thread, no matter what material it is made of, will buckle (bend) if it is over 20 inches long between solid support points. Root diameter assumed as 1/2", not thread of 3/4".
Bubsyouruncle
Senior Member
Fascinating problem. Replacing the shackles. Been there, done that.
So let's take a car sitting on its springs. All you really need to do is to shove something sturdy into the space between the spring ends to hold them that far apart and then take the shackles off. Kinda - sorta? Right? I have done it with an ordinary 2x4.
Of course, if the spring is lying on the floor, you have a very different problem. One that the manufacturer faced 10,000 times a day. (opps, 2 springs. 20,000) a day).
I suspect that Henry used a variation of the Detroit door opener which spread the springs just far enough to enable the workers to install the shackles.
So let's take a car sitting on its springs. All you really need to do is to shove something sturdy into the space between the spring ends to hold them that far apart and then take the shackles off. Kinda - sorta? Right? I have done it with an ordinary 2x4.
Of course, if the spring is lying on the floor, you have a very different problem. One that the manufacturer faced 10,000 times a day. (opps, 2 springs. 20,000) a day).
I suspect that Henry used a variation of the Detroit door opener which spread the springs just far enough to enable the workers to install the shackles.
Kube
Super Moderator
John, grade 8 is very brittle - NOT what you want for this application. Whatever you do, I strongly advise you do NOT use All-thread® either. It too is VERY brittle.
There have been a number of related posts on this subject. The guys, like myself, that have an extensive background in metals and metal working concur with my advice.
GOOD spring spreaders (in other words : SAFE) are made from one piece of steel. Stress proof is my preference. VERY strong, it can handle large loads in various directions.
Kube
Super Moderator
This is a good rule of thumb. especially the advice in regard to the minor diameter.For everybody out there who is column-loading stuff to make spring-spreaders, keep in mind Euler's statement which tells you that you will have buckling of your column at 40 times your minimum dimension. That says that your 3/4 all-thread, no matter what material it is made of, will buckle (bend) if it is over 20 inches long between solid support points. Root diameter assumed as 1/2", not thread of 3/4".
However, this rule does not apply to all types of steel.
Kube
Super Moderator
This is one of those jobs that with the correct tools is actually quite easy.
I have replaced quite literally dozens of authentic shackle pins without issues.
I am fortunate enough to have both the extracting and installation tools made by KR Wilson.
VeryTangled
Well-known member
Hi Mike, Thanks for your recent comments about Dad.
I appreciate all you do on the 'Barn. Even if some of the folks here drive you nuts.
We're all sort of a dysfunctional family.
Having the right tool for the job is soooo helpful. I didn't think a saws-all was the thing to use at the time, but, I was happy when that bushing broke in two.
My step-mom's recent comments are to 'get rid of the excess tools' which sounded like fingernails on the chalkboard to me. Whoo-wee.
Anyone making a spring spreader, please use 1 inch stock.
-VT/Jeff
I appreciate all you do on the 'Barn. Even if some of the folks here drive you nuts.
We're all sort of a dysfunctional family.
Having the right tool for the job is soooo helpful. I didn't think a saws-all was the thing to use at the time, but, I was happy when that bushing broke in two.
My step-mom's recent comments are to 'get rid of the excess tools' which sounded like fingernails on the chalkboard to me. Whoo-wee.
Anyone making a spring spreader, please use 1 inch stock.
-VT/Jeff
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
The first spring spreader I made (when I was young and foolish 
) used 3/4" all thread and pipe with an ID that slid over the threads. It worked on a '35 front spring but bowed badly on a '35/'36 rear spring. The only thing I will use it for now is to remove or install just the main leaf of front or rear springs. It's just plain too dangerous to try to spread a completely stacked spring. I would like to find an original KRW spring spreader or make one like it myself.
) used 3/4" all thread and pipe with an ID that slid over the threads. It worked on a '35 front spring but bowed badly on a '35/'36 rear spring. The only thing I will use it for now is to remove or install just the main leaf of front or rear springs. It's just plain too dangerous to try to spread a completely stacked spring. I would like to find an original KRW spring spreader or make one like it myself.
Talkwrench
Well-known member
I cant think of using anything other than the proper spring spreader.. The amount of force I used to spread my springs ...Oohh scarey mate!
Vic Piano
Well-known member
We've used "spring spreaders" for years on both Fords and Lincolns, not something that I particularly enjoy but, I'm happy to report that we've never had any accidents. The key is to use a good (read that correct) tool and take all necessary precautions’. Have fun John, we'll see you soon! Vic
