Hey fellas. I was wondering a couple of things about installing front spring perches in the axle. 1) Is a press required to install perches in the axle? If so, with the shape of the perch, how is that done? Meaning, where do press? 2) Vendors sell either the perches with steel bushings already installed, or without. What are your recommendations? Thanks ahead of time
Spring Perch install
- Thread starter Lee Mitch
- Start date
Joe K
Well-known member
Daunting task in place.
I have done it with a hammer - until the threaded portion was "peined" over.
I have done it by cutting off the pein - using a hardened drift - until my arm got tired.
I have done it by cutting off both top AND bottom portion of the perch thinking this would give better access for PB Blaster to cut into the rust. Rusting together of the parts is the BIG issue.
Drift didn't work any better, but a strongback made of a 2x4 piece of oak and a "screw-jack" arrangement finally got the slug out.
On another axle I decided to demount the axle beam as much as possible and use the 150 Ton press at work and a drift. This worked.
On another axle I "drilled out" the shaft portion using the "dimple" on the bottom thread to center the drill - this worked too but probably more from the "heat" of drilling and removal of material. A hammer/drift finished this off.
Turning the top with an uber pipe wrench will frequently get things moving.
You probably don't want to use a torch to heat up the axle lest you affect the properties of a forged component. Although there are those that do.
So maybe the best advice - use whatever works for you. If you really mess up, more axles are out there. In Londonderry NH Facebook Marketplace there for a long time was a complete front axle assembly for $75. Gentleman down in Lexington MA will probably give you one.
More on use of a press for installation: probably not required. You get it 70 percent home using a small hammer and then use the nut and thread to pull everything together.
At this point you usually don't have the rust issue.
Joe K
Lee Mitch, are you only asking about installing new perches? If so, a press is not usually needed.
If you also need to know how to remove original perches, that's where you may need a press, lots of penetrating oil, a heavy hammer, lots of cussing, sore arms, etc. ................. unless the old ones come out easily. If they come out easily, you may find the perch holes in the axle to be worn oversized. Then, a trip to a machine shop (or your own garage if you're so trained) will be in order to resize the holes for a bushing to give the new perches a nice press fit. Installing new perches in worn holes will come back to haunt you in short order with a possible shimmy.
If you also need to know how to remove original perches, that's where you may need a press, lots of penetrating oil, a heavy hammer, lots of cussing, sore arms, etc. ................. unless the old ones come out easily. If they come out easily, you may find the perch holes in the axle to be worn oversized. Then, a trip to a machine shop (or your own garage if you're so trained) will be in order to resize the holes for a bushing to give the new perches a nice press fit. Installing new perches in worn holes will come back to haunt you in short order with a possible shimmy.
Thanks guys! I was referring to installing the perches into the axle/bushings. I appreciate the info. on removing the old ones. My perches just fell out, so very worn to say the least. My axle is completely shot as where the radius rods meet the axle, the machined surfaces are worn down 1/8" or better, besides the axle being twisted and bent in inconceivable directions. I am looking at trying to get a straight axle somewhere and installing the bushings and perches myself.
Brentwood Bob
Well-known member
PM sent.
gdmn852
Well-known member
Hello, as mentioned in above posts, getting the old ones out is quite a job , had the axle out on mine and bolted a long piece of angle iron on the perch area and was able to twist the perch out of the axle. Yours must really be worn to be in that condition, a lot of rough roads in the past.
Joe K
Well-known member
My advice would be if you're going to replace spring perches - then de-mount the axle entirely - and while it is out "straighten it."
Almost all of my axles of experience (now seven or eight) had SOME bend to them. The typical bend is from the right-hand perch BACK - apparently this the wheel closest to those right edge potholes.
With the axle removed and the perch and kingpins removed, one can devise a "test jig" which one uses to assure "straight" and "collinear." And using a press, bend the axle to requirement.
A Model T axle is shown (Another Victor Page picture) but the tools, the principle and the test are the same.
Joe K
Almost all of my axles of experience (now seven or eight) had SOME bend to them. The typical bend is from the right-hand perch BACK - apparently this the wheel closest to those right edge potholes.
With the axle removed and the perch and kingpins removed, one can devise a "test jig" which one uses to assure "straight" and "collinear." And using a press, bend the axle to requirement.
A Model T axle is shown (Another Victor Page picture) but the tools, the principle and the test are the same.
Joe K
rotorwrench
Well-known member
There is nothing wrong with haveing a perch bore and pin that are a bit on the tight side but I work the new pin & crusty bores till they can be pushed in at least by hand but a bit tight. The tapered portions are there to secure the pins tightly to the radius rod assembly and axle with somewhat of a collet affect so that it won't move. Even slight movement is a no go for these parts.
I use sandpaper to smooth out new pins and clean corrosion from a crusty perch bore. I have some old rod stock that I secure the paper to for cleaning the perch bores. I only remove enough to allow a pin to be pushed in with some force behind it.
I use sandpaper to smooth out new pins and clean corrosion from a crusty perch bore. I have some old rod stock that I secure the paper to for cleaning the perch bores. I only remove enough to allow a pin to be pushed in with some force behind it.