Spring Lube ?? Additional....

[Werner]

Hello,


If the individual springs in the spring package are not lubricated and glide badly and differently, then the spring leaves, which glide easily, must additionally absorb the force from the leaves, which glide badly. This overloads them.

Wherever a relative movement takes place, friction and wear are created. Therefore, it must be lubricated there.

In the picture you can see how the upper spring leaf worked into the lower one, because the spring ran dry. About 0.3 millimeters!

 

[Railcarmover]

Petroleum based lubricants and the abrasives in road debris combine to make lapping compound,fine for seating valves,bad for springs.Ford vanadium steel leaf springs are no different than modern leaf springs made today,all spring packs (a stack of leaves is called a pack)when assembled are assembled clean and dry to insure the center bolt clamps the leaves together and bears proper load to hold the leaves in alignment,any lubrication would deter the ability of the center bolt to work,its how leaf springs ultimately fail,through wear the tension on the center bolt degrades. Spring packs 'lubricate' and remain rust free through action.in the above photo the leaves are worn due to use,they have achieved the end of their life cycle,lubrication would have accelerated the failure.

 

[Werner]

That's not true.



The centering screw only has the task to center the spring package in the middle. Not more!

Holding the spring package is done by the two briden / bars, which fixes the entire package with the four very thick screws.

If the spring had been lubricated properly, it would have no abrasion / wear!

 

[Kurt in NJ]

There is a lubrication point in the hand crank bearing to drool on the center bolt and onto the spring to lubricate it in the crossmember

 

[Railcarmover]

That's not true.



The centering screw only has the task to center the spring package in the middle. Not more!

Holding the spring package is done by the two briden / bars, which fixes the entire package with the four very thick screws.

If the spring had been lubricated properly, it would have no abrasion / wear!

well,since Im lying,lets put it to the test...center your head directly over the center bolt,your nose 3" from it,and cut the center bolt head off cleanly and quickly with a torch..once you recover,post your results..

 

[taffrail]

In the grease and oiling chart there is a hole in the crank bearing/spring clamp that is supposed to be oiled and it's not for the crank. I oil it when I oil everything else. Also but a short piece of hose on the radiator over flow tube so it won't drip on the spring.

 

[redmodelt]

While the bolt does hold the spring pack together before assembly, the center bolt job is to keep the leafs in alignment when installed, the clamps hold the spring in place in the channel and apply clamping force to each side of the center bolt. Plenty of A's have broken center bolts and they don't have exploding springs, the leafs may shift but they don't explode under the car.

 

[Chris Haynes]

I just picked up a very rusty spring that had been stored outside for decades. I am planning to break it down for cleaning and painting. Is it possible to slide the clamps off and back on? If not what are my options?

 

[redmodelt]

If you are talking about these;
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/rear-spring-clamps
Maybe not. They have a locating pin that fits into the leaf. You would still need to take precautions because the springs are still are under tension even if it's old and rusty.