I have several old fords-36, 37,40- They are in various states, and leaving mostly stock. The 37 is what I'm working on now and I'm new to the ford's so things are taking me longer not to mention a very bad back. Anyway I am going to pull the front end (axle,springs, wishbone) and check it out. Needs ball replaced so I figure may as well check the rest. I bought a roll of spring polly linner to put between the springs. Is this really ressary or am I wasting my time. Thanks
spring linner??
- Thread starter onedon
- Start date
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
original mid 36 on springs had a fitting on the centerbolt nut, the leaves have a lubrication groove, this was to be lubed with spring lube ---not grease, that will clog the passages, spring lube is composed of 3/4 ice machine oil (about ATF viscosity)talc (dry lube and polishing agent) and a touch of ground asbestos ---no need for any modifications to proper restoration to get good operation
if you put poly liner in you will probably need to get longer u-bolts to compensate for thicker spring
if you put poly liner in you will probably need to get longer u-bolts to compensate for thicker spring
swanwaco32
Senior Member
Where do you get Slip Plate at??
Pete
BANNED
The liner will do no good if you install it on an old rusty scaly spring. It will be eaten out in a very short time.
To work properly, the spring leaves need to have all rust and scale ground off. Any grooving on the top at the outer end needs to be faired in.
At this point, if you spray the leaves with either Slip Plate or Moly Kote they will not rust.
If you want to have a just slightly softer ride than you had before, assemble the spring with the liner material between the first 4 leaves. You do not need if further up the spring. Most U-bolts have enough length to accommodate this additional thickness.
It is likely the spring clips will not be long enough though so new ones will have to be made.
If you want to soften the ride, you can adjust the number of leaves in the spring to get what you want. Do not remove the second leaf. Start with the 3rd leaf. Take it out, assemble the spring and put it in the car and try the ride. If you want it softer take the 5th leaf out. You should be around a 100 lb. per inch spring rate at this point which will give you a comfortable and stable touring ride.
Stock or equivalent shocks will work fine with this mod.
Be sure to use new shackle bushings. Stock or Delrin are good. Stay away from urethane.
They have a tendency to squeak in this application.
It is a good idea to either use a stock type spring cover or wrap the spring from the u-bolt to the eye with black electrical tape to keep dirt out. Dirt increases friction and you do not want that.
To work properly, the spring leaves need to have all rust and scale ground off. Any grooving on the top at the outer end needs to be faired in.
At this point, if you spray the leaves with either Slip Plate or Moly Kote they will not rust.
If you want to have a just slightly softer ride than you had before, assemble the spring with the liner material between the first 4 leaves. You do not need if further up the spring. Most U-bolts have enough length to accommodate this additional thickness.
It is likely the spring clips will not be long enough though so new ones will have to be made.
If you want to soften the ride, you can adjust the number of leaves in the spring to get what you want. Do not remove the second leaf. Start with the 3rd leaf. Take it out, assemble the spring and put it in the car and try the ride. If you want it softer take the 5th leaf out. You should be around a 100 lb. per inch spring rate at this point which will give you a comfortable and stable touring ride.
Stock or equivalent shocks will work fine with this mod.
Be sure to use new shackle bushings. Stock or Delrin are good. Stay away from urethane.
They have a tendency to squeak in this application.
It is a good idea to either use a stock type spring cover or wrap the spring from the u-bolt to the eye with black electrical tape to keep dirt out. Dirt increases friction and you do not want that.
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
I bought some rolls of that spring linner years ago because at that time I thought it would be a good thing to do. After reading many reports about the problems it caused, I decided not to use it in my springs. I think I still have it somewhere.
TomT/Williamsburg
Well-known member
I use the spring liner on the first 4 leaves as has been mentioned. Better than the stock ride but I may try the spring slip stuff on my next project .....
freddie
Member
On my side of the world where you cannot run to a shop to buy what you want because they just do not have it, we use graphite powder between the spring leaves. It is a dry lubricant and do not attract dust. We by it in 1/2 pound bags. If you have a lock that is exposed to the elements just fill the shackle hole with the same and forget about it.
You can also buy a spray can version of the same which we use to lubricate emergency brake cables. The graphite in the can is mixed with a high evaporation liquid. it will penetrate the cable and drip out at the bottom. after 5 minutes the liquid is evaporated and only the graphite stays behind.
Caution: If you spill the graphite powder try not to step in or onto it. You will slip!
You can also buy a spray can version of the same which we use to lubricate emergency brake cables. The graphite in the can is mixed with a high evaporation liquid. it will penetrate the cable and drip out at the bottom. after 5 minutes the liquid is evaporated and only the graphite stays behind.
Caution: If you spill the graphite powder try not to step in or onto it. You will slip!