Spring Assembly

B

Bruce/Texas

Member
I am preparing to reassemble my front spring. I have cleaned, sanded out the wear marks and smoothed the ends of the leaves. I also have primed them. I intend to try out the poly spring liner. Should I use grease along with the poly or should I install the leaves dry?

I also need to change out the shackle pins. Once I get the old pins out and the eyes cleaned up, is there a best way to install the new pins? I'm thinking just driving them in might cause the metal jacket to swell causing all kinds of problems.

Thanks, Bruce
 
I left the springs dry with my liners. Didn't think the grease would add anything and might deteriorate the liners. At the minimum, the grease would collect dirt. Don't think grease is needed with liners.
 
I think your liners might make the total spring pack thicker and your U-bolts may not be long enough. Also don't forget to install the little pad of webbing that goes between the first leaf and the cross member.I used a used a piece of .090 alum. instead. It won't hold water and won't squeak. I did paint each leaf and did use grease between leaves. That was 12 years ago. still works fine. Torque on U- bolt nuts is 80 ft. lbs. as I recall.
 
Thanks for the replies. I already have the liner so I will assemble the spring dry and see how it goes. If I have any trouble with the liners, I'll go with the grease. Good idea with the aluminum plate in lieu of the webbing.

Old Henry, my spring looked good when I took it apart, nothing broken.

19Fordy, are those stock wheels in your picture? If not, what width and diameter are they?
 
When I reassembled my springs with the Poly-liner I just left the shortest leaf off and the U-bolts were then long enough. No noticeable spring rate was sacrificed by this deletion.
 
Bruce/Texas said:
Thanks for the replies. I already have the liner so I will assemble the spring dry and see how it goes. If I have any trouble with the liners, I'll go with the grease. Good idea with the aluminum plate in lieu of the webbing.

Old Henry, my spring looked good when I took it apart, nothing broken.

19Fordy, are those stock wheels in your picture? If not, what width and diameter are they?
Click to expand...

The front tires are 5:60x15 COKER wide whites (2 3/4 " whitewall) on stock 15 x 5 1/2 early Ford pick up rims with 5 x 5 1/2 BP on stock drums. Front tire dia. is 25.88". Total front rim width is 6 1/2 in. Rear tires are BF Goodrich (from Coker) 7:60x15 with 3 3/8 white wall. Tire dia. is 28.66. Rear rims are 15x6 from a company called SOLIDS with 4 in. back space and 3 in front spacing for a total wheel width of 7 in. BP is 5 x 5 1/2 on stock rear. The width of a 40 Ford rear end is 59 1/2" WMS to WMS. Not sure SOLIDS is still in operation. Front axle is dropped 4 "Magnum with Posie reversed eye spring.
 
depending upon the year of the car, but most likely the hole for the spring shackel is 0.75" the shackel is about 0.753 for a press fit. I clean the holes with a reamer and press in the new shackel. You are correct, driving them in, messes up the metal jacket. You want a press tool that rest on the outter jacket and not the center bolt.
 
I powder coated each leaf in my front spring and used teflon "buttons" about 15 years ago. No squeaks, no rust, rides very well.
 
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