Sport coupe top pattern

J

Jeepster47

New member
Anyone have prints/patterns for making a top (the cloth covering) for a 28 sport coupe. I could use the old one for patterns but I’d rather make it prior to removing and be ready to install. That way I can continue to drive it up to that point. Thanks in advance !
 
First there's the panel board and coverings inside that all attach to the wood, then there's the top. The top is basically two pieces. The piece from the rear bow to the header with the wire supports and straps Then the rear curtain with flap. The rear bow is where they both meet up. If you want a pattern, it can be made on the car as long as a person knows how to do all the edges. If not, I'd suggest purchasing one from Classtique. It's hard enough with a pattern. You might as well make life easier.
 
I took mine to a top shop that specialized in antique cars. Was $$$$ but worth every penny. They used whip cord, the top is the whole car if done right. “Sport Coupe”.

Enjoy
 
Last edited:
Ford used whipcord material that was rubberized to repel water. The original type was available up into the 60s but has pretty much become unobtainium. Haartz has a modern material that resembles the standard olive colored convertible top material used back in the day but no whipcord type. The closest thing they have that resembles whipcord at all is the Twillfast HT but it's not Tan colored. It's one of their BlueSky products so it has to be custom made in a particular color or weave. That could get expensive.

My Sport Coupe is a later 29 that had the pyroxylin coated faux leather top. Modern vinyl is as close as it gets to the old book cloth materials. Tan whipcord was used on most 1928 and a fair amount of 1929 Sport Coupes with the rest using several different colors of their faux leather material.
 
Last edited:
Whipcord fabric is still available.

Using it makes all the difference in looks. Look on line for a supplier.

It is expensive, but if you have a car that you have spent time and money to restore. It is the frosting on the cake.

Our 1929 has a firewall date of 6/18/29. Our top is tan. At shows it draws a lot of compliments.

Enjoy
 
Chances are when you remove the old top you will find lots of others things that need to be replaced. Water leaks in over the years and you will probably find rotted wood, stained fabric, rusted metal, etc. If the wood is rotted it will not hold the staples needed to fasten the fabric. Like anything else with these cars, take one thing apart and you will find 10 more underneath that need fixing. If you are planning to go through all the work to replace the top, why not do it all properly. As noted above, you are likely better off just buying a top kit from Classtique. They are cut slightly oversized so you still have to do a lot of trimming. I got the Stayfast top and it worked out great. They will probably just sell you the outer top if that's all you want, or even just the material.
 
The spring steel thin strips that form the curve on the upper sides are generally left out as well. They rusted away on original cars that set out too many years. Most folks aren't aware of there existence so they don't use them. The panel board quickly sags without them. They are complicated tops. The roadster tops are easy by comparison. The Cabriolet tops are closer in difficulty factor but are still easier to do.

Little things like the belt rail molding tend to complicate the process. The metal strip incorporated into the bottom of the rear flap and the cinch fasteners are another thing. Even the back light is a bit complicated. All are important to get one right.
 
Just to add info: "The Restorer" series of books by MAFCA volume 5 has a lot of info on the Sport Coupes. The MARC "Technically Speaking" series of books volume 5 has a good rundown on what it takes to build the foundation for the Sport and Business Coupes with respect to the card board or panel board construction with dimensions and installation along with the interior covering and padding. The panel board sews through with a walking foot machine so little pockets for the metal strips and the wires can be attached to hold things together pretty tight. If the car in question has a good foundation that isn't rotted out like most get to be after long periods, then just a top cover and rear curtain may be all that is needed. The old OEM card board was complicated. It had the outer and inner layers that were treated for water resistance with an inner core of screen wire to add stiffness but still be sewn through. I don't know if Classtique's is made this way or not. It may just be water resistant panel board. A person can call Mike at Classtique if they have questions. He seems to want to help folks with stuff like this.

The top cover is made in three pieces to include the sides with rear quarters and the top center piece. They are sewn together with a top stitch and the seam pretty well centers in the center of the bow radii on both sides. Measurement can be taken while the top is still on the car and long as the structure is still pretty solid. Standard sewing allowances can be added to the dimensions to make pattern pieces. It just depends on however a person plans to sew it up. Tops can be slightly big so that padding can take up the difference but i'd stay pretty close to the original dimensions. Edges have to be left a bit long to allow for pulling and stretching for fit prior to tacking and trimming those edges off. Sewing allowances are based on what size foot a person has on their machine.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top