spline adapter experience

A

alanwoodieman

Well-known member
after doing some research, and waiting on the rain to quit, I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with 10 to 6 spline adapters for the 36 rear axle?
 
Won't work if 36 has original tubular drive shaft with 10 spline bung welded on pinion end.
You would need to convert to later solid drive shaft, and use 6 to 10 coupler with 10 spline pinion, or 6 to 6 spline coupler for 6 spline pinion.
You could also replace 10 spline bung on tubular drive shaft with 6 spline bung, and use a six spline ring and pinion set.
 
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due to my vibration problems, we were considering changing the gear from 4:11 to 3:78 and questioned how to change it. one suggestion was to replace the torque tube with a later solid driveshaft like a 39/40 and use the torque tube from that year. I might have to change the trailing arms location on the tube but that is doable. would that work?
 
one note. If you weld on new rear trailing arm support that often pulls the torque tube out of alignment. to correct put equal welds on reveres side.

John
 
You might consider having a straight tube drive shaft fabricated. If the front spline is good on the old one, it can be removed and used to fabricate a new shaft using a 6-spline rear coupling on the back. Those 35/36 rear axles with the heavy bones are not a bad set up and the smaller carrier bearings are still available for them at overhaul.
 
alanwoodieman said:
due to my vibration problems, we were considering changing the gear from 4:11 to 3:78 and questioned how to change it. one suggestion was to replace the torque tube with a later solid driveshaft like a 39/40 and use the torque tube from that year. I might have to change the trailing arms location on the tube but that is doable. would that work?
Click to expand...

I'm planning to go with a solid driveshaft on a 35 rear I'm building now with a 6 spline pinion, and either a 3.78 or 3.54 gear set. The center bearing '37- '40 stock torque tube I'm planning to use has the wish bone mounting lug already mounted in the correct position.
 
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My 36 I tore aprt and the center section bearings were toast, and I needed to get sleeves put on the ends of my bells, so I bit the bullet and tore it down, ordered a 354 ring and pinion and that's when I discovered the 10 to 6 spline issue.

Dick Spadaro told me what I needed was his adapter, then have a driveline shop cut the 10 spline end off at a spot that left a proper length 6 spline and weld it to the drive line, which is what I did.

Haven't run it yet, but if Dick said to do it, I was not going to argue it.
 
alanwoodieman. What are you trying to do? What chassis is it going in? In 32's, 34's and A's, you can cut the driveshaft and weld in a 6x6 coupler. I did that on my 32 using a 34 shaft. I made a sleeve and welded it on to the coupler and turned it to the proper size to go in the tube. NOTE, the coupler may not be concentric.
Be carefull on the length of the torque tube vs. the driveshaft. If the driveshaft is too long the front bearing and speedo gear will float. Too short and the snap ring fill not fit.
 
put a 40 3:78 ring and pinion carrier in a 36 and bored out the 10 spline and welded in a 6 spline adapter, spun this in a lath and it was balanced. problem seems to be a combination of dry u joint and bias ply tires, have driven car several time at speeds over 60 and it does not do the odd vibration as before
 
You need to be careful with the new 6 to 10 adapters. The splines may not be centered to the outside of the adapter so if it put inside the driveshaft to be welded in it would not be centered when installed on the pinion gear...
 
A person would have to use an arbor off the splines to turn it in a lathe and keep it concentric with the spline bore. It makes you wonder who is making this stuff when things aren't concentric. A lot of splines are broached inside the bores but if the bore is off center then the quality and balance is compromised.
 
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