Splash Pans?

jfrankhash

jfrankhash

Junior Member
Just got a new pair of engine splash pans from Bert's. Any hints on installation, fit, etc. before I crawl under the "Miss Frances" would be appreciated. John
 
Powder Coated black, good heavy steel for $69.00 a pair. Mounting bolt set was an additional $2.95. Freight was $15.10.
Service was fantastic.
 
I recently put a set on my truck. Did it myself but a helper would be a plus. I put a few washers on the bolts to the oil pan so the tabs would not have to be bent. I understand that if the tabs are bent to match the lip on the pan they have a tendancy to develop stress cracks. Ditto on Bert's, always the best of service there.
Dave
 
its easier with a helper. Usually it requires compressing the pan to get the frame holes to align so you can get the bolts in. If you're alone, you will be up and under multiple times to get the bolts in, the nuts on and tightened. 2 persons can do the job in 1/3the time.
 
I can't believe how many people will restore an "A" and not put splash pans on it. When I was looking to buy it seemed like half of all "A"s for sale were missing the pans. Colors that are not original is also a problem for me. I am OK with Hydraulic brakes and some mechanical changes,but paint and upholstry should be correct if you plan to sell some day.
 
Disclaimer: this is neither intended to recommend nor criticize the following.

From "Tiny Tips...from readers" from the July-August 1974 "The Restorer" (Volume 19 Issue 2, page 22):

"Removing those dust [splash] pans on either side of your engine can be a pain in the neck, especially when it comes to removing the six bolts that hold the pans to the frame. It is usually a job requiring the help of another person [who holds] the nut from above with a wrench while [you work] from underneath the car. I [the person submitting the Tiny Tip] have solved this problem by merely tapping these six holes 5/16" and using short cap screws with lock washers to secure pan to frame. These screws can be removed with the same wrench used in the removal of the oil pan bolts and the entire job can be completed from the underside of the car."
 
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Splash pans just add that FINAL touch to your engine room, beautiful, a whole different look! You'll say, "Why did I wait so long!" Bill W.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
Flows the air across the engine and out the vents and back of engine. Reduces dust and dirt in the engine area.
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My experience has been that they're basically good at collecting dirt, oil, and anything else in the vicinity of your A. After the second time taking them off and cleaning and repainting them, I just lined them using aluminum roof flashing and pop rivets. They don't have the original look, but they're easy to clean with a little Simple Green and a wet sponge.
 
I am running them on two of mine and think that they really help. I haven't had a problem cleaning them. One pair was done with black POR 15 and the other pair was black powder coated. If oil or gas gets on either pair it will just wipe right off with a blue shop towel. If I'm going to a parking lot car show, I spray some tough stuff foaming cleaner and wipe dry and they look new again.

They are a pain to R&R. I haven't needed to remove either set so far. The next time I do one I'm going to thread the holes in the frame to 5/16 like Skip said above, this would make replacement a one person job .
 
I got my old pans powder coated black and tapped the frame for 5/16 screws, easy to put on and off. I'd read that on Tiny Tips, also.;)
 
John LaVoy said:
The splash pans actually are the ground connection for the engine to the electrical system.
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That is an old wives tale. I have had plenty of model A's without splash pans and the electrical system worked just the same as cars with splash pans. The engine is grounded to the frame by the front mount, the wishbone ball, and the rear spring, and plenty of other places where there is metal to metal contact.
 
2manycars said:
That is an old wives tale. I have had plenty of model A's without splash pans and the electrical system worked just the same as cars with splash pans. The engine is grounded to the frame by the front mount, the wishbone ball, and the rear spring, and plenty of other places where there is metal to metal contact.
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Yep! If ever in doubt, just clip a test light to the gearshit, poke the dangerous pointy end to the top of the + (positive) battery post & do a loooooong crank. NO LIGHT= GOOD GROUND. LIGHT ON= add a flat end extra cable from frame end of ground cable to trans top cover or wherever! Bill W.
 
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